I should preface this by saying that I grew up in a wintry location where, in those days, everyone bought humidifiers because it was thought that the dry winter air was unhealthy and contributed to the misery of colds and flu.
<!—-><!—-> <!—->
That being said, I am now wondering about the wisdom of dumping large quantities of water into indoor air. It has pretty much been proven that colds and flu are caused by bacteria and viruses respectively, not by exposure to dry or cold air. High levels of indoor humidity can contribute to the growth of mold and fungal organisms in walls, especially with a leaky vapor barrier.
<!—-> <!—->
Furthermore, it seems that many people these days are seeking to *DRY* their indoor air in winter by the use of continual exhaust fans and HRV systems which lower the relative humidity by the introduction of cool outside air to a warm environment.
<!—-> <!—->
So does this mean that the old ways were indeed bass ackwards? Or is there still some wisdom in artificially raising humidity in the winter?
<!—-> <!—->
Thanks,
<!—-> <!—->
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.â€
Replies
You are wrong on all assumptions.
Super dry air doesn't cause flu, but if you have a sore throat and breathe real dry air it doesn't help. That's why it feels good to stuff your face in one of those mist machines.
Nobody seeks to dry the air by using HRVs. Nobody should use exhaust fans continually unless they continually stink up the place.
Mold only occurs with over-humidifying. Don't do that!
Humidity should be in a mid range (40-55%, opinions vary). If it's in that range already year-around, no need for anything. If it's lower, you humidify. If it's higher, you dehumidify. Some areas require both. It's as simple as that.
DG/Builder
Making sure that the indoor air is between 35-50% humidity in the winter is a good idea not only for your skin and lungs, but also for furniture, cabinetry, rugs, draperies, etc., and even gyp board. I have remodeled kitchens and baths in many homes where the owner disconnected the humidifier system years previous because it wasn't working.
I always make sure to tell them about the negative health effects on their bodies of air that is too dry, and then of course I tell then that neither I nor my cabinet company will warranty their brand new $25K worth of cabinets unless the humidity is maintained at an acceptable level with a humidifier. That always seems to make them have a new unit installed.
I actually include wording in my contracts to the effect that there is no warranty if they don't have a working system. I will also check the mechanical room to make sure the system is working before we are finished with the project.
sully
Humidifiers are also a blessing to those of us with sinus problems. I can almost guarantee myself a headache/migraine if the house remains too dry.
That's the God's honest truth. I forgot all about sinus problems. I was fortunate enough to grow out of my problems about five years ago.
sully
The difference between using a humidifier or an HRV and/or dehumdifier is the basically the tightness of the house.
People exhaling, bathings, cooking, and planst all give off lots of moisture in a home.
Now in an older leaker home the moist condition air leaks out and is replaced by colder drier outside air. Thus the inside humidiity in the winter can be low.
New homes with very tight construction don't have as many air changes. So moisture keeps building up from the ocupants, but little is removed by leaking out. Thus the use of HRV and/or dehumidifiers.
So to summarize, the important thing is to MAINTAIN a reasonable (roughly 25-40%) humidity level. Depending on the tightness of the structure, the season, and the activities of the inhabitants, this may require adding water (via humidifier) or removing it (via AC, dehumidifier, or HRV). The fact that an HRV is needed in a (tight) home built in 2000 doesn't in any way "prove" that a humidifier isn't needed in a (loose) home built in 1970.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Everybody has a thermometer in the house. Wonder how many have a hygrometer? Best thing I ever did was get a DEhumidifer for my 1950 house that is too tight and too many plants. Now it runs around 40% and the new thermopane windows arent condensing.
When I was a kid, I had so many winter nosebleeds ffrom the dry forced air in my parents house (it's still too d*mn hot), that in third grade I had to have the inside of my nose cauterized.
That was no fun, 'cuz I could smell what he was doing . . .
Forrest
Thanks all. There's some helpful info there. I'll start looking around for a relative humidistat.
Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Viruses thrive in overly humid and overly dry air. Best to be 40 to 50 percent. If the air is too dry the following can happen:
musical instruments like violins and pianos can be permanently damaged
furniture cracks
hardwood floor and moulding joints open up
people get dry, itchy skin and sore throat
static electricity on everything
I put a humidifier in an old home and mold started growing in the attic, even when I turned the humidifier wayyy down. It was an Aprilaire unit with good sensors. The mold in the attic probably reflects a leaky envelope and a not-leaky-enough attic. Since then I've sealed the envelope and added more ventilation to the attic, but I don't use the humidifier... and I probably don't need it as much as I've sealed off many of the leaks & drafts.
Billy
I prefer dry air. My nose does better in it. However, my first daughter developed croupe, and the treatment involved humid air. We ended up humidifying her room so she could breathe, and we've also had to humidify with our second baby. In between we had to rip out the carpet which never quite smelled right to me after running the humidifier.