Hydronic radiant heat over wood framing
wdsi
| Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on
I will be starting soon on a “pop-top” addition to our 1960’s ranch style house. The plan is to install hot water radiant heat over the existing first floor and the new second floor. The usual recommendation is to imbed the pex tubing in a thin slab of gyp-crete over the wood sub-floor. I would like to use concrete stain finishes on most of the floors, but I have an idea that lightweight concrete is not very abrasion-resistant and can’t be finished with a polished surface. Does anyone have experience using regular concrete for this application, or have an alternative suggestion to make a finished surface that is both smooth and durable?? Many thanks!
Replies
I'm not an expert in this area. My parents rented a house while having theirs built. It had terrazzo floors with radiant heat. Black with flakes of mica. It was gorgeous! Although slippery too! go bare foot or keep your shoes on....
with crete, you will want thicker than the typical 1-1/2". Don't know for sure, but I'd figure 2-1/2" minimum, with extra portland and a sand mix with no stone.
Now you are talking lot more dead load on the existing framing to calculate and see if you need to bolster that first.
Also, you are changing elevations re ceiling height from finished floor, window sill heights ( any get to be less than 18" requiring safety glass?) Door heights, etc.
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Have you considered Warmboard or QuickTrak with conventional flooring as an alternative to concrete?
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA