I NEED to make a fien sawblade….the hole is 12mm=.47244
I need this by Tuesday…looks like a 31/64=.484375..might work, don’t have that either.
So would ya drill a 7/16 ( I have)=.4375 , and dremel out the fit? or what?
I am using an old pull saw blade, if that matters.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
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Replies
Sphere, what about a 7/16 and then sneak up on the size with a mechanic's reamer? The blades have a close-to-interference fit on that little boss on arbor...dremel might be hard to control.
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
I have a tapered peg head reamer for violins and such, but afeard I'd trash it with such a hard steel..and it cost more than a new Fien blade..LOL.
Wait a second...I do have a countersink that is fluted...maybe being so thin, that may work...hmmmm
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
You got a picture? What is the hole for? How does it get fastened and to what?
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
The hole is an arbor hole, it don't spin, it vibralates the blade..and is clamped by a cup washer, so maybe a few .001's won't matter. The steel I am using is about .020 thick, but really hard stuff, I need to anneal it before i commence drilling or reaming.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
So with the vibration, a 1/2 inch hole even with the cup washer very tight would eventually "walk n wobble"?
I guess I am lost on what tool this is.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
try letter drills....more precise than number drills
here ya go bro
http://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm
nothing but love for ya
View Image Official Jeff Buck Memorial Tagline "
Edited 12/22/2006 11:22 am by Sancho
What's your time worth? A Fein blade costs $35. What am I missing here?
BruceT
It took me ten minutes to make these two..
My time is not the issue, it is what do I need to get the job done as fast as possible.
View Image
View Image
See what I needed? Fein don't MAKE them..therefore I will.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
There is a long thread over at JLC about doing just that.http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34192And it also links to a thread Luka did here about making one..
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Hell, I did it already. Yup, I read those threads, thats where I got the Ideas to make my own.
Talkabouta flexible tool. How many other tools can you fabricate cutters for, in a short amount of time?
Thanks Bill, Happy Holidaze...You coming to KY?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
"Thanks Bill, Happy Holidaze...You coming to KY?"Same to you and yours.Yes, I am leaving in the morning. And will probably be coming back on Tuesday or Wed at the latest.So I probably won't have time to see anyone..
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Well, shucks. Sorry i'll miss ya, being so close.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
WOW..it worked even better than I thought. I was able to scarf cut the Brick moulding about 14" up from the bottom, right up next to the stucco. So far so good.
Then I scarf cut the jamb about 12" up from the threshold. The jamb was 5/4 thick , thats why I needed the extra depth of cut. I then "ripped" the jamb, at the weatherstrip dado and removed the rectangle.
I Rabbeted a hunk of trex for the threshold end of the new jamb on the tablesaw, shimmed and aligned it all, PL glued the seam, and finishscrewed the jamb repair in place. Then a simple scarf cut on the Brickmould, ( I scaveged some from a job site dumpster, the plastic stuff) again on the 99.00 tablesaw. and glued and fin. nailed into the 2'' of solid wood jamb, and then a single trim screw into the trex bottom repair patch.
Switched to the sander head and toothed for primer, then made the slot for the new weatherstrip with the rip tooth side of the blade..I re'set the teeth for a wider cut with Needle nose pliers..LOL.
Primed the whole shebang after the caulk set up, and installed the new weather strip ( the first time I even had to OPEN the door to the home)...done in 2 hours.
I bid pretty high, felt guilty. I gotta work slower.
This is the last door she had, the first one was a french with side lites and stock Multimaster blades, took me all day.
Homowner lady is a sweetie, and she was shocked...so I knocked 200 bucks off the invoice. Guilt is expensive for me, I'd rather not overcharge her and lose her, than have that extra 200 bucks.
She is now making a list for me of what else I can saw up and fix..LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Ive done the same here,bud, needed the money like
all get out,but just couldnt justify charging, what I est.
on a dog pen from he-- ,that I just built for my hunting
pardner.We used all junk stuff ,siding,2x's,Roofing that
we had sitting around, he did reinburse me for a new pair
carhartts since one of his pitts bit me in the azz when I went
into his cage and tried to "play with me" .I gotta lose some
weight, I think he thought I was a bear.
I need to hook up again with you...I just got blindsided by time and holidays....where ya at theses days again:?
I gott aget on MY roof today, something ain't right, I had water in a window upstairs...OOOOPS.
Ya know any good roofers on this forum?
Hope ya had a good holiday..
Oh, if yer a fattie ( like everyone else except me..LOL) my house may groan, it is OLD and tired, like me...don't know hows you'd stay on two feet, shid keeps breaking under foot..(G).
I'll call after the 1st when I get back, goin to NC for a spell with the slobbering cheese maker I call a grandson.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Wow, those look terrific! When you were talking about having to anneal the old blade before drilling, it sounded like a big project to me.With big teeth like that, do you have to handle the tool differently to make up for the fact that the oscillation is probably less than the distance between teeth?
BruceT
No, I didn't have to anneal the steel. I piloted with an 1/8 bit then a 3/8ths to create a perimeter guide, then ground away a few .0001 ths to fit.
Freaking awesome cutting with the coarse side, yes, I have to "saw" a bit back and forth, but the fine edge will shimmer in a solid plunge cut like butter in the pc of ash I tried it on.
I know these blades will coast thru the pine I need to remove, and when I get up against the fixed side lites I have a safe edge.
If anyone don't own a MM, or like me, the old sander model...buy one. I figgure I can make any blade now I have the hole figgured out.
It is 10 mm.. +/- .oo2...I hate metric conversions at this scale..I work in thous of inch or "fugg it, it fits tite"..
Saw on. with vibration.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Looks great, I was thinking of trying to make a blade when Lee Valley had Japanese saws on clearance.
But it's much easier to do it vicariously.
Anyhow, I have a file if do make the blades or need to sharpen the blades. I've tried the file on the smaller teeth and it's really hard to keep track of where you are. Magnifying glasses would help.
Yes, I have at least two feather files, but the temper of steel makes it dull going. I have old backsaws by Disston and others that I converted to a rip tooth pattern, or close, for taske that involve cross or gnarly grain.
Yup, ya need a magnifier type glasses to effectivly sharpen anythin with a kerf of .o26, esp with a blade that is not wanting to be filed, but ground to sharpness.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Try some auto supply stores and see if they have the 12 mm bit.
If not try industrial supply houses or even a good hardware store.
Should be someplace that you can get one today or Tuesday.
.
Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
And to ALL... I stand corrected, my calipers were mis-aligned ( that recess in the jaw) and it is a 10 mm.
So, I piloted with a 3/8th bit and used a cone stone ( for sharpening my hollow chisel mortising bits) and ground my way to .400. close enough to ride over the hub of the Fien sander ( this is the precursor to the MM).
I have a few old PullSaws with thin blades that were shot, so that is what I used for the steel. Then I had a brainstorm...I have feather files to sharpen the pull saws, but often it is easier to buy a new blade than to sharpen an old one, or they are too hard of an alloy to file, or too brittle to reshape the teeth.
So, I attacked my dull blades that Fien makes..a semi circle one and a full round one..and guess what? You can dress them up just fein ( LOL) with a Japanese feather file!
No need for a vise or anything to clamp them, I just held the blade against the edge of my bench and took the same number of strokes on each gullet..5 in this case.
You ( at least I) might need a vision helper, thems are small gullets...the shine was my feeler gage to jump from gullet to gullet..I couldn't really see what I was doing....more of a feel.
So I made a double sided straight blade , times 3, for back ups..out of a cheap wore out Shark grip saw using nothing more than a cut off wheel in a RT angle grinder for severing from the whole blade, and a drill for the arbor hole, and a cone grinder to perfect the the hole diameter..I then found a dremel stone that worked better...and a feather file to tweak the teeth.
I now have a bunch of what would cost a bunch of bucks worth of blades, in about an hour worth of time. I have a job to R&R some rotted threasholds and jambs and Brick mould on a stucco house...I did one French door already and trashed the "E" blades and a circle blade kerfing in the repairs...now I feel I am ready to saw anything.
BTW the Pull saw blade had the rip teeth on one side a Ryoba saw..even they cut well if you actually move the Fien like a handsaw...I just saved a alot f money and head aches.
I don't own the REAL MM, but this old sander is a dream for this kinda work. They can't afford a total new jambing of these doors, so I am just replacing the lower foot or so with trex jambs and plastic Brick mould....all against a stucco that I can't dare tear up, due to finish paint being done way too soon.
Life is good, and getting better. If I never have to BUY another blade, I am happy.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Why not just "buy" a Fien saw blade?
See my post to Bill..and I get a better steel, and greater depth of cut, and can choose the teeth pattern. And I don't wait for shipping..to name a few reasons.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
I buy my Multi-Master blades from the ebay guy, great stuff. I just don't have the time or energy to make them - although I'm sure I'll give it a try someday.
What I do, though, is save my worn blades, so I can rivet, anneal, fasten a "new" blade to the old "chassis". Any chance you can adapt a worn blade, re-use the old hole ?
Greg
Too bad you're not closer - I just bought the exact size reamer from MSC to put in some larger wheel studs.
Forrest - trying to help
S'ok..I nailed it. Merry to y'all..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Next time, you have an excuse to buy a metal lathe. Bore any size hole or even make your own reamer.
Don't know what I'd do without a lathe.
You can buy metric bits.
Or you could buy an adjustable reamer.