So my basement is pretty much finished, except for the stairs. The existing stairs are rough 2x material. They are seriously starting to bug me.
I’ll have some time on my hands, seeing as I’m getting laid off this week, but not really any money. . . Can you suggest a dirt-cheap way of finishing them? Paint really isn’t good enough.
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Without spending much $$it sounds like you ruled already ruled out one of the cheapest options. Carpet would be my next suggestion followed by a visit to the local reuse it center or salvage yard for used hardwood.
Hmm. Perhaps I am being too picky. The problem is that the stairs - not framed by me - are constructed so that the nose of each tread lines up exactly with the back edge of the tread below it. When I add my risers, there will be no nosing at all.I guess I could just add 2x nosing and paint - or otherwise finish - the whole thing.
Edited 10/24/2007 9:06 pm ET by Biff_Loman
You got a thickness planer? Or big belt sander?
2x lumber can clean up pretty nice, especially for basement steps.
Get down to clean wood, stain, and varnish.
Another project off the "honeydo" list <G>
Add a nosing ,nail glue or finish screw to the existing tread. Get a quart of Zinnser orange shellac.Mix one part shellac to two parts denatured alcohol,this is a one pound cut as the can comes in a three pound cut. Apply with a good 2 1/2" brush made for shellac ( Purdy is the brand I use).Start at the top,brush evenly.If you miss a spot and the shellac is drying,leave it. You'll get that spot on the next brushing.When done you 'll have to wait 15 to 20 minutes for the last tread to dry.
The shellac will raise the grain slightly, if you want, lightly sand with 220 or 320 grit and vaccum the dust. Reapply as many times as you want to get the color you want.
Do up to 4 coats in one day.Usually no need to sand except the first coat. 8 or 9 coats will give you about the same protection of two coats of shellac straight out of the can.Very difficult to apply a 3lb cut without brush marks for most of us. A 1lb cut is easily applied without brush marks,but requires more coats.
Shellac looks great on stairs or floors.It holds up very well contrary to what some people think.For many years shellac was used as the sole finish on stairs and flooring.You won't make rough stairs beautiful with any finish,but you can make them look acceptable.
mike
carpet
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Biff Loman,
I'd second Shellac it can make an ordinary wood look extrodinary and yes it's the toughest stuff out there!
However, I would look at another option.
Hardwood flooring!
Now do not go out and buy wood at your lumberyard. Way, way, way, too expensive!
I didn't check where you are from, but there are over 10,000 wood mizer sawmills out there plus countless other small and medium sized sawmills..
If you buy from there you can buy hardwood for peniies on the dollar.. Ask and I'll give you more details..
I can cover a flight of stairs with various hardwoods and spend less than $10.00 I could if I didn't have all the equipment do it with a handfull of cheap hand tools and some time..
If you are interested ask and I'll gladly share.. time and effort are what you will pay in , not cash..
I never even thought of carpet because the wife and I don't use it. Vacuuming is a pet peeve for both of us; go figure. So that's never gonna happen.As you can see from the image, the damn treads protrude past the stringers, making me think that a hardwood overlay might be tricky. That being said, Frenchy's on to something. My father owns a shop that makes hardwood cabinet doors, so access to material is not a problem for me.Maybe I'll hack off the corners of the treads with my sawzall.
Edited 10/25/2007 3:05 pm ET by Biff_Loman
View Image
I bought a house with that tread protrusion setup. I looked at it a hundred times thinking of what I could do to make it look like carpenters framed it. I finally sold the house and it's probably still like that.
The lack of nosing poses a trip hazard. Add the risers, add a nosing and add a skirt board and do a great job of painting and you'll be very happy. If you're good, you won't mind the nosing joint. You'll have to be creative to make it look like you planned the whole thing. fka (formerly known as) blue
lay a sheet of G1S and just make a slide done
Make skirt boards with cutouts for the treads. Attach risers to the back of the treads. Use a cleat on back side at the top of the riser to attach it to the bottom side of the tread, add a spacer to the front of the riser on the bottom if you want a "nose" on the steps. Sand and paint everything, or spiff it up with applied hardwood, etc.
Well, I'm unemployed now. Looooooong weekend! :-( I think I'll avoid any kind of build-up on the treads. I've got a bulkhead at the bottom of the stairs, and I just miss it with a little head bob. Increasing the height of the tread might result in goose eggs. I live in my basement, so this is my regular entrance into my house.I like your idea of making a skirt board with the threads cut into it. I'm no carpenter, so it first it seemed a little daunting. Then it occurred to me that I could use a framing square to trace the treads onto a template.That'd really clean it up nice. Right now, the protruding treads look stupid. And overlaying the rough, beat-up stringers seems easier than sanding them pretty, although a belt sander would be easy for the treads.
Edited 10/27/2007 10:01 am ET by Biff_Loman
Sorry about the layoff, been there many times. Hopefully not for a long time again. I'm no carpenter either, but what I would do is to tack the skirt board in position, and mark it with the framing square. You will have to calculate how much to remove, or maintain a 2" horizontal offset from the final position then the 2" leg on the square can be used to directly transfer the marks.
You could put some of the fake hardwood flooring on the treads if you can spare a 1/4".
Edited 10/27/2007 10:25 am ET by MarkH