We are building our own home, and used 2x6s for the framing. When we recently installed our windows, we just popped them into the window framing, and called it good.
Now I am reading that we should have used jamb extensions? Please tell me this is something we can retrofit!
Any other advice would be appreciated, since taking the windows out isn’t an option.
Replies
re: "Any other advice would be appreciated,".
Know your limits. Your posts and questions demonstrate that you not qualified to be performing these tasks.
Hey Norman, thanks a ton for your support and constructive advice! /sarcasm
We certainly have been novices throughout this entire experience - we began building in May of this year with zero previous experience. We've made mistakes along the way. But our home is square, level, and plumb. And we look forward to having a well-built (at least that's the opinion of our builder friends who've watched what we're doing on my Facebook page) home to move into on December 1st, God-willing.
Post a picture or two of the relationship of your window to your rough frame. I couldn’t blow it up enough to get an idea of what dimension you’ll need to extend the jambs.
Many window companies offer extension jambs to fit the various depths of framing.
Making them up yourself is not rocket science, as I’m sure Norman will agree.
Include in your description what you are going to want to do with trim and sill.
Are you the one that mentioned bldg in Northern Minn? If so, anywhere near Chisholm?
Edit: oops, didn’t scroll far enough and posted this.
Not in the Iron Range, as Chisolm is. We're far northeast, in the Arrowhead region. Grand Marais.
I've made and installed jamb extensions for doors and windows while they were in place. I simply milled new stock that matches the thickness of the existing jambs and temporarily held it in place while making witness lines with a try-square about every 6-8". Then I use my biscuit jointer on the leading edges where these lines appear and cut # 20 biscuit slots on the existing jamb as well as the new extension. Glue along these edges, add biscuits and clamp or pneumatic fasteners. Done.
It's pretty easy really. I make these jambs about 1/8th of an inch proud of where the interior face of the drywall will land just in case. You don't want it to be short. I figure I can always use a block plane to take it down if need be.
THANK YOU!
We are not using drywall, but instead using plywood with pine planking over it. I would assume the same technique would apply?
It is the same.just make sub jamb rips 1/16 approx. wider than width of window jamb to face of your finished wall material.you can also use shims behind them instead of a biscuit jointer.
jamb extension are interior pieces to bring the trim width/depth equal to the finish wall - if you properly flash the exterior edge of the windows, not having the extension jambs at the time of window installation shouldn't be a big deal.
question is what size framing are your windows designed for? 2x4 framing or 2x6 framing?
These are the windows in question. There is no mention of the framing in the listing. https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/windows/single-hung-windows/crestline-select-250-vinyl-single-hung-window-with-zo-e-5-glass/4000219sh24x36s250dtzoe5nogia/doors-windows-millwork/windows/single-hung-windows/crestline-select-250-vinyl-single-hung-window-with-zo-e-5-glass/4000219sh36x48s250dtzoe5nogia/p-1444446319574.htm
Vinyl windows do not typically have jambs that extend to the wall surface. With drywall you would use drywall returns to case out the window. You need to case out the window using your pine material.
We have 2x6 framing and our vinyl windows have jamb extensions. With our casement windows we have very nice, ready-made window sills.
Frame Depth
3-1/4 inches
seems to be made for a 2x4 wall - so it you installed in a 2x6 wall you need to extend the jambs to meet the new finished wall - so probably about 3 inches ( 1/4 to make it "3 1/2, 2 inches to get to 2x6 thickness, then 3/4 inch for the pine planking, +/- something if the wall is off)
previous advice from Roy seems to be the best on what to do
good luck
Jamb extensions are not big deal. The big question is whether you flashed the windows, integrating that with the house wrap?
Oh yes, we absolutely did! Two types of tape on the sill, then caulked around the nailing fin on the top and sides, nailed, then more tape on the top and sides, and finally brought the flap of Tyvek down across the top with a bead of caulk under it, then Tyvek-taped those edges.
Jam extensions are installed during trimming. But the roof should be on before the windows are installed to protect the interior finished wood. It looks like you haven't considered my previous advice to sheath the roof ASAP. You are quickly running out of time.
Marv, do you honestly think we don't know that? And do you honestly think that we wouldn't have had it roofed already if that COULD have been done? Jeez...sorry I didn't follow your advice, dude...we're two people building a house on our own.
Also, there isn't any finished interior wood yet. We aren't stupid, just ignorant, since we've never done any of this before.
I was referring to wood on interior of windows. If you have all vinyl windows, I apologize. But the roof is more important than the windows. It is much easier to put in windows in the snow than sheath a roof.
you have vinyl windows not wood units. you will be okay till you roof it in.
Awsome. FHB has a couple of articles on trimming windows with jamb extensions, including this one (which I edited quite a few years back). https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2001/03/01/trimming-windows
Thanks so much for your kind help, Andy.
even though most of this is about jambs, quick comment about doing the roof sheathing - if you can afford it - check out Zipsystem sheathing - saves you some time & money to get it closed in and weather tight (sorry to bring it up if you're already aware)
good luck
Looking at the photo of the interior.....Do I see black mold (the start of rot) growing on the OSB? I'd be very concerned about that. Just off the top of my head, I'd apply some wood preservative to both the inside and outside faces of it. The house will be particularly susceptible to it on the bottom couple of feet and best practices, while not required by code, is to sheath those bottom couple of feet in plywood.
I'm confused why you haven't applied house wrap to the sheathing covering the rim joists. You have to start at the bottom and work to the top.--and now you have to undo your work. You're going to have to remove the bottom fasteners of the existing wrap and tuck the the strips of new wrap up underneath.
I'm looking at the windows and not seeing any flashing tape.
The design of the foundation and floor is more suitable to a seasonal residence and I'm left scratching my head.....
Some serious issues have been raised in this post (and I guess your other posts) and I have to agree with Norman that you don't have the knowledge to undertake the project successfully. The idea is that you're supposed to do extensive reading and watching of videos to learn before beginning a project of such scope. The opinion of your builder friend is meaningless when I see the glaring errors and inevitable problems with your home that I see in the future.
There are a lot of negative comments here regarding your ignorance about building. While there may be some truth to them, don't let them get under your skin. Learn what you can (Extending the Tyvek over the floor system is a good point), but don't get discouraged. It looks like you're building a reasonably sized house, and if you get it dried in before the snow flies, you should be in reasonable shape for finishing it over the winter. Good luck, and ask questions!
wise, gracious words
Agree!