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I though it was a simple job…

exiled1 | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on December 9, 2006 06:50am

Ok, all I had to do was raise a light switch and an outlet up about 3 inches. We installed a new vanity in our bathroom and it was higher than previous. I cut the holes in the wall and proceeded. The wires that came through the bottom of the box were long enough to reach the new height without adding to them.  The last couple inches of wire though were not in the cable jacket- I figured they were self insulated any way, so I wrapped the last bit in electrical tape and commenced wiring. I finished up both and patched up the wall. A day later I noticed that the switch was making some noises and the light was dimming. I figured it might be a bad switch since I had hit it a few times while sanding and patching. I bought a new switch–(I think it is a pretty crappy one-might try and replace that again any way). I thought this fixed the problem-no more sounds and lights weren’t dimming. A couple days ago, I noticed that the switch made this light popping sound when I turned it on. I took off the cover and screwed around with it for a while. The sound only happens once in a while, and seems to be coming from inside the switch.  I recently found out that I wasn’t supposed to use electrical tape on the wire without the jacket out of the box. What was I supposed to do? It was only 2-3 inches.. Any way, does anyone know the correct procedure for what I am attempting to do? I did the outlet the same way–except that I installed a new gfci there instead of the old outlet–same wiring though..Thanks

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  1. User avater
    user-14544 | Dec 09, 2006 08:59am | #1

    Are you sure you have the right light bulb in the fixture?  I had this problem once where I had a 75w spotlight bulb in a recessed can and was only allowed to have in a 65w max.  The unit would overheat and shut off.

    also, did you use a 15amp switch for a 20amp circuit?

    EDIT: I removed my junction box post...thanks to all who corrected this for me.

    it's ok to think you're as old as you once were...just so long as you don't try to prove it...

    http://www.cobrajem.com



    Edited 12/9/2006 9:50 am by Charlie the Singing Carpenter

    1. exiled1 | Dec 09, 2006 09:50am | #2

      Ok, thanks. I think I understand what you are saying about the box--as for the switch, maybe I did get the wrong one--but that wouldn't explain why the first one started making the sounds while the light was dimming--with the new switch, i don't have that light dimming problem any longer, but just an occasional soft pop sound. Also, I went to the hardware store and just picked up this switch--it was in a bin and only cost like $.65--is that the going rate for these things? It seemed awful cheap.

      I guess tomorrow I will cut open the wall(s) again--and place a box under the other one, splice it up there and run it up to the other box--or maybe I might just call in the professionals and sleep a little better tomorrow night....I am going to have to find something else for them to do while their here--I don't think it will be a cheap call for the 5 minutes it will take him to do it right....Thanks for the tips..

      1. User avater
        zak | Dec 09, 2006 11:54am | #4

        Sorry, but the box under the drywall is really not the right way to do this.  It's illegal, because connections could become loose over time, and they need to be accessible.

        Can  you put a junction box in the basement, and run new wire up?  or add an outlet down near the floor, and use that as a junction to run new wire up?zak

        "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

        "so it goes"

         

    2. dovetail97128 | Dec 09, 2006 09:52am | #3

      And Illegal and Dangerous. No electrical connections should ever be hidden in the manner you describe. Any junction box must remain accessible.

      1. User avater
        user-14544 | Dec 09, 2006 05:49pm | #10

        thanks for pointing that out to me...I saw it done once in a house I was remodeling and just assumed it was legit...yet another reason for me to stay away from the spark!  I'll go erase that part of my post.it's ok to think you're as old as you once were...just so long as you don't try to prove it...

        http://www.cobrajem.com

        1. DonCanDo | Dec 09, 2006 06:02pm | #11

          Don't erase it.  It makes subsequent posts confusing.  Just add an edit to say that you've been corrected and no longer recommend this.

          edit:  never mind.  that's exactly what you've done and everthing makes sense.  Except, of course, my own post.

          Edited 12/9/2006 10:05 am ET by DonCanDo

          1. User avater
            SamT | Dec 09, 2006 06:17pm | #12

            Don,

            I don't understand your post;

             SamT

            Now if I could just remember that I am a businessman with a hammer and not a craftsman with a business....."anonymous". . .segundo <!----><!----> 

          2. DonCanDo | Dec 09, 2006 06:36pm | #13

            Neither do I.

          3. sharpblade | Dec 09, 2006 07:12pm | #14

            Can you please edit it & clarify. My head is about to explode.

    3. torn | Dec 09, 2006 05:11pm | #8

      "I usually add a blind junction box and run new wire...even if it is for 3". I get a metal box and cover (to keep it from accidentally getting drywall screwed) and nail it to the stud so it will be hidden by the drywall. simple, neat and clean."but not allowed by code. All junction boxes must be accessible without disturbing the finished surface...

  2. Jer | Dec 09, 2006 02:57pm | #5

    Don't let Bill Hartman see your post. He'll rake you over the coals for such a move on that box, and deservedly so. I'm just too tired.

    I would re-do it right if it were mine. Gotta sleep at nights.

  3. scrumseeker | Dec 09, 2006 03:05pm | #6

    As others have said, do not bury the junction box.

    I would use an old work type box cut into the inside of the vanity base.  You could use a blank cover plate for future access, or install an additional outlet.  Many customers request an outlet inside the vanity for things such as electric shavers,  hairdryers, etc.

     

  4. DanteO | Dec 09, 2006 04:45pm | #7

    Use heat shrink tubing to re-jacket the old wire.  I will usually do this on both wires if the jackets are old.

  5. JimB | Dec 09, 2006 05:38pm | #9

    Adding to what others have said:  you really should replace the wire entering the boxes so that the jacket is intact where it enters,  a hidden junction box is a big mistake (and doesn't meet code), an outlet inside the vanity is useful.

    So, can you just set a box inside the vanity in the same stud space as the existing outlet, pull the feeder into that box, and run a new cable to the existing outlet and switch?

     

     

  6. cameraman | Dec 09, 2006 11:32pm | #15

    If I am reading this post correctly, he didn't keep the old box buryed in the wall. He said that the wires coming in the bottom of the box were long enough to reach the new height of the box. But the coating on the romex didn't go completely in to the box, at the new height. He taped the wire to make up for the outside romex jacket.

    He didn't say if he had a PVC box or a metal work box. Sounds like he has a small short. If he has a metal work box I have seen the lugs tightened to tight to damage the coating on the wire. Which ever way, something is wrong, dosen't sound like the tape caused it, unless the wires were damaged in the first place.

    But as all of you have commented, burying a junction is a big no no!!!

     

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