With 5″ cherry baseboard, I decided not to f*** around with the coping saw. I never got very efficient with that thing anyway.
Practice will make perfect. . . Right now, I’m getting it pretty close. A few more copes and I think I’ll have the hang of it.
It is a seriously cool way of doing it! Yeah, dusty, but whatever.
I’ve never seen anyone do it. If it weren’t for this forum, I’d have never thought of something like that. It sounds aggressive and ballsy, but it’s really so simple and easy.
Replies
I just heard about it too, I need a pic of the angle set up.
Went to despot to get disc and realized I had know idea what to get.
I got a package of the bolt-on discs. I also bought a rubber backer, but you know, the back-to-back disc method really works. It's easily stiff enough.
sanding disk backer disk to fit yur RA or the T nut to hold the disk on to the RA only use two agressive disks back to back....
don't waste yur money on the DW accessories... they're not flat or round or something...
go with Norton or 3M or one of the other better products...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Hay thanks all. Sometimes I just need to see things. I'm wondering if my Roto Jip wouldn't be
a bit more controllable. Smaller and has variable speed.
I read about coping that way just last year. Have coped using a saw/file/knife for as long as i can remember (ok maybe even longer!). Have had a n angle grinder for probably 16 years and never thought to put the two processes together. I used the back-to-back disk method which also gave me more possibilities of approach.
After you cut the 45 degree angle, run the wood crossways the blade of the table saw. The curve of the blade will give you a little bit of a back-cut. Takes a little practice.
Table-saw coping? No thanks.
Edited 3/20/2008 7:40 pm ET by Biff_Loman
no thanks...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
ok, I don't get it, why cope baseboard, why not miter?
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
I've had trouble getting mitered baseboard to fit nicely. This is stain-grade too, right, so I can't just DAP it and hope for the best.
good point
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Most rooms are not square, or square enough, coping allows for a margin of error.
It also allows tighter joints that will stay tighter as things shift. You should cut your coped pieces a bit long and "spring" them into place. Not a lot of tension just a little.
I'll usually cut base/chair-rail/crown a 1/16" long for every 10' or so.
There are lots of reasons:
A coped piece can be "sprung" in. Even if there's shrinkage, it's unlikely that a gap would open.
No corner is a perfect 90°. By coping, you can avoid cutting 2 44.5° (e.g.) miters.
Even for 90° corners, there is often a build-up of compound in the very corner which would mean back-cutting both mitered pieces so the mitered faces meet.
Looks like a piece of cake.
Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Do you have anything that isn't in Egyptian?
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Nope. Only comes in hieroglyphics.
AVI is a windows media file. Maybe you've got a Mac?
Riversong HouseWright
Design * * Build * * Renovate * * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
I always wondered how the Egyptians coped their trim...
Now I know; good thing I can read hieroglyphics.
I'm not as funny as I think I am
Here's one made in the USA:
Edit: This is bizarre; the file plays fine on my computer, but when I try to open here through Prospero, it fails.
Edited 3/21/2008 1:38 am ET by Ragnar17
Opened fine in QuickTime on my Mac.
I've started doing it in the past couple of years, and it does work and speed things up. However, I think that the technique could use some tweeking and when I get a little more time, maybe this summer, I'm going to fool around with it.
I'm thinking about strapping the grinder in place on the bench and moving the molding through it. It seems to me that the stability of movement with the molding is better than that of the grinder because of the weight ratio.
Of course for the big heavy 16' pieces I would do it holding the grinder.
As with anything of this sort there is a learning curve and it just takes lots of practice.
I still use the cope saw & rasps on smaller items.
too much dust for me
Is the baseboard mostly straight, or is it fully profiled (if that makes any sense).
I have heard differing ways of doing baseboard where much of the board has no profile.
1. Cope the whole thing
2. Cope only the profile part, and butt joint the flat part with a slight back bevel.
3. Cope the profile part, and miter the flat part.
I don't like the idea of 3, because I think the miter can open up. I think I may try 2 when I finish the baseboard trim in our kitchen. We have 8" yellow pine with a ogee on the top, with flat stock below. So there is much that is just flat and straight.
How do you mount the back-to-back disks? Do you glue them together or anything? I seem to have to have a rubber backer on my grinder (Bosch). I don't think the nut will fasten down enough without it, as I don't think the threads on the spindle go all the way. Plus without the backer, it seems like the sanding disk will be too floppy, but I'm not sure once they are spinning.
How about a coarse flap wheel?Been using them for about a year now with pretty good results, for some reason the two back-to-back disks seem too flexible in my mind... I'll have to give that a try.
Never tried them for this, but they wear out
to fast for everything else.
Depends on the use I suppose. I typically only use a grinder for coping smaller profiles. I go back to the Collins coping foot for larger crown and base and use the grinder to clean up. Flap sanders tend to last about a month with heavier use.
Bryan,After you cut the miter for your cope, flip your piece on the saw and cut down the flat section of the miter with the saw set about 10 degrees. Then the only part you have to fiddle with is the top profiled section, plus you get a dead straight cut on the majority of the cope.Does that make sense?- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
I think I understand. You have the baseboard standing to make the mitre cut, then flip it upside down (still standing) and cut the flat section with a 10 degree back bevel sorta idea? I'll practice on scrap first, if I have enough scrap to practice on.
You got it.I'll try to take some pics when I'm out in the shop today if I have any base around.- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens