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I want both

Sphere | Posted in General Discussion on December 7, 2003 05:41am

I am guttin out a saddle-bag type log home..the fire places were already gone..sticks and mud..the space where they (back to back fireboxes) stood is now open..this is central ‘tween the two halves..I want to have a see thru fireplace or double sided wood burner where the original stood. BUT, I also want the main stairs to go up there as well..the space ‘tween the 2 log walls is 42″..is there a way to use a pair of REAL skinny flues..straddle ing the stairs..(keeping the stairs CLOSE to code width) and joining to a single flue from there up?..If I fabbed a steel fire box with slim exhaust ports and used flex stainless pipe flattened to an oval what would be a real effective insulating method?..any help?

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  1. DavidxDoud | Dec 08, 2003 05:05am | #1

    as a fellow antique log home owner,  I'll bump this back to the top for ya - - but I wouldn't expect much feedback - - what you want to do is non-standard and probably against most codes/rules - - being out in the country with no inspections,  you have some leeway in what you do - - just be sure that safety is not compromised -

    I like insulated SS pipe -  warms up quickly,  draws well and doesn't built up creosote - and straight shots - - for stoves,  6" is usually fine - for an open fireplace,  8" would most likely be adequate -

    how about a straight shot up from your appliance on the room side,  rather than in the stairwell/dog trot?

    1. User avater
      Sphere | Dec 08, 2003 05:20am | #2

      Thanks David,  Just today I was removing some more layers of wall coverings inside and widening an existing door where the starting tread would/will be..still looking at a 7 15/16 rise no matter whats below..anyway, I had the same thought, the only drawbacks are that it makes the firebox even bigger, or, out in the room more and then the two flues/chases are that much farther apart when I need to wye them back into one..by all means tho..it is an option I will study more closely.I am designing a firebox with an upper baffle plate, heat exchanger tubes, and a blower..I wish Juca stoves were still made !

      1. DavidxDoud | Dec 08, 2003 05:28am | #3

        why do you want to tie the flues together? - - appearance? - - it'll make cleaning difficult - - howz about just shooting  both of them straight out the roof and revel in the honesty? - - or else bring them out close to each other and build a false box around the separate flues to disguise them - -

        1. User avater
          Sphere | Dec 08, 2003 05:43am | #4

          just ran it by the wife..agreed, separate flues, false chimney w/veneer stone..the orig. was 3'x5' poking up through the front of the ridge. If I squish an 8" ss to an oval that is 3" in the narrowest cross sect. I can still have 1" air space betwix the logs and the ends of the treads..41" log to log, minus 31" stairs, = 5" eithers side. dress up what is visible (and not so visible ) with a non heat conductive sheath, and it should fly. Cleaning will still be do-able with the right brush. How do they clean those multi-chambered masonry units that heat a whole house on a handful of toothpicks? I guess really hot fires.?..thanks again..

          1. DavidxDoud | Dec 08, 2003 06:12am | #5

            How do they clean those multi-chambered masonry units that heat a whole house on a handful of toothpicks?

            always wondered that myself - - did some investigating of the massive units 20 years ago - the people selling the designs didn't offer any downsides - gotta think there are a few or the concept would be more wide spread - -

          2. UncleDunc | Dec 08, 2003 07:51am | #7

            The reading I've done on the high mass masonry stoves suggests that if you fire them right, there's very little ash and no creosote. I've seen at least one builder say he installed inspection / cleaning hatches and all he ever used them for was inspections.

          3. calvin | Dec 08, 2003 03:17pm | #9

            Here's your 13 winter firing report on Tulikivi masonry heaters.  I will vac the chamber at each side of the bottom of the heater once a yr to remove fine ash powder.  There is a couple inch space completely surrounding the fire box from the outter surface.  The space is wide open, no honeycomb.  The heater vents out the bottom.  Best firing comes from wood the size of your forearm (not popeye's).  A good place to find information about masony heaters is:

            http://www.mha-net.org/Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

          4. User avater
            SamT | Dec 08, 2003 07:01am | #6

            If you need 8" round you will still need 50 square inches cross sectional area with your oval or 3x17 flue.

            SamT

            "You will do me the justice to remember that I have always strenuously supported the right of every man to his opinion, however different that opinion may be to mine. He who denies to another this right, makes a slave of himself to his present opinion, because he precludes himself the right of changing it."   Thomas Paine

          5. seeyou | Dec 08, 2003 03:12pm | #8

            The drawings I've seen (I've never actually seen a real one) had a cleanout door for each horizontal passage. Common sense dictates that there will be some build up if you extract most of the heat from the flue gas. Also, a double sided fireplace requires substantiallly more flue size than a single sided f/p. I used to be a chimney sweep and a common call that  I got was double siders that didn't draw right. There are rule of thumb charts that give the relationship between flue size and f/p opening. I don't have one handy, but will post one if I run across it.

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