I have read several times that recessed lights are a big cause of air leakage. Even IC cans. Apparently some are more air tight than others.
Does anyone know which brand is the best in this regard? It seems ludicrous to need to build another box around the fixture which some seem to do to make it airtight.
Or is the trim the most important part?
John
Replies
IC stands for Insulated Ceiling. They leak every bit as much as the non-IC rated lights, just will not cause a fire due to higher operating temperatures associated with being surrounded by insulation. Some insulation can be placed in direct contact with the light, some cannot. Best bet, buy cheap cans (as if there is anything else) and build boxes around the ones that you don't want to leak.
IC- I was always taught - Insulation CONTACT, meaning you can cover the lite fixture with insutation. Every ceiling I've ever seen has been insulated.
Apparently you've only seen ceilings w/ cans in one story houses, then.
I was just thinking (narrow mindly) about the attic. I don't insulate ceilings between floors in most cases, let the heat on the lst floor help heat the 2nd floor.
figured as much ... just clarifying.
There are IC and non-IC cans, but there are also "air tight" cans.
New construction air-tight cans are usually pretty tight.
Remodeling air-tight cans sometimes have perforations in the can from the slots that the locking tabs slide in.
You can set the can. Then put a strip of aluminum tape over the slot to seal, then install the light/trim kit.
Some gaskets seal better than others, depends on the quality of the gasket and the texture of the ceiling. Sometimes you can do better with a bead of caulk.
The can will be labeled ICAT for insulation contact, air tight. And it is often in the part number.
But look at the fime print.
That might be only with specific trim.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
The only difference I see between IC's and ICAT's is a foam gasket around the opening, a bead of caulk would work as well or better.
As others have said, ICAT cans, insulation contact, air tight, vary somewhat in quality and performance - a sloppy installation will kill any can's effectiveness.
The ICAT cans which I use most frequently bear a sticker proclaiming their conformance to some California standard - so at least there is a rating / certification standard.
Look for the stickers - install neatly, add caulk, DW compound gaskets as specified.
Jim
What brand do you use?John
They are all the same.
Halo H7ICAT - 6" diameter, 7" tall, new construction, insulation contact, air tight. Other diameters, etc. are available.
These will accept either trims by Halo or by Juno.
These are supplied with a factory applied gasket on the "plate" which the actual can penetrates - this gasket seals the can to the top side of the drywall.
Once the drywall is hung and finished the can is adjusted vertically via 3 small screws so it rides perfectly flush with the ceiling.
At this point there is a second, self-adhesive, gasket ring (supplied with the trim) which is applied over the edge of the drywall and rolled up into the can body. The second gasket serves to seal the joint between the can body and the drywall.
Many installers goof on this step by applying the gasket to the top side of the trim ring - leaves the can / drywall seam unsealed.
All of the openings in the can body are factory sealed with patches of the same gasket material.
After installation and gasketing, the only penetration in the can body remaining is the leftover space in the Greenfeld flexible conduit from the can to the integral junction box. Although I have never done it, I guess you could caulk around the wires as they enter or exit the Greenfeld.
Junction boxes are relatively big with supplied "clamps" for 4 Romex runs. I think the marked capacity of the junction boxes is 4 runs, #14 Romex. I have never run more than 3 and there was plenty of space left over in the boxes.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Thanks for your thorough reply. You wonder why a non air tight IC can is made since air tightness and insulation go hand in hand.John
>>why a non air tight IC can is made since air tightness and insulation go hand in hand<<
It is one of the great mysteries of life.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
A big cause of air leakage and/or heat loss. If you don't insulate around/over the fixture, you can get huge heat loss. I've inspected attics where the homeowner wonders why he has 16" thick ice dams at the eaves in his brand new house. Poked my head in the attic and it was like daylight!! ... all coming from the recessed lights. Builders often over use them IMO. air tight and IC rated or build a box around each. I've sealed the holes in the unit w/ caulk ... don't know if that is kosher, though.
Try these:
http://www.haloltg.com/common/brands.cfm?pg=Detail&brandName=Halo&category=Recessed%20Downlighting%3A%203%22%20Incandescent%20and%20Low%20Voltage%3A%203%22%20Housings&id=14536