I am planning on building a split-level home, 28×40 foundation with 4′ below ground foundation walls, then framing 4′ walls on top of that, then joists/decking, then upper walls. Just wondering if a poured ICF wall 4′ high has enough lateral strength on it’s own without having the tops tied together ?
Also, It seems like a waste to use ICF’s for the garage foundation portion, was thinking of making some re-usable forms out of 2x’s and plywood for the 3′ garage foundation walls. Any thoughts ?
Replies
Each ICF block maker has their own specs and tech sheets for products. While blanket answers can give general overview, its best to ask the reps or makers of the specific block your after technical questions. THey are happy to do this and provide lots of information when asked. This is the route you should take.
Each block system utilizes different rebar and ladder tie-in requirements. Your blocks should be able to do this, but without knowing your rebar and ladder useages it might not be.
Block makers offer a class, usually two mornings or a weekend. Take it, its will be the best knowledge you can have plus a strong dealer support to help with problems in the field.
Not all alone, but as part of a total system.
in other words, you need to have the footers solid, on good soil,with perimeter drainage, and tie well to them with plenty of rebar. Then don't backfuill with clay soils - use gravel to compliment the perimeter drains and grade surface away from the house.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
You building this yourself, subcontracting part or all of it, or using a GC?
WmP gave sound advice. Lots of ICF products out there. Take some time and look at a lot of web sites and request information. Weed through the sales hype and pick a product that suites your needs.
That said, I like GreenBlock. Your 4' wall won't be a problem for most of the products available, but GreenBlock is one of the few that allows you to internally vibrate as you pour. A big plus IMO in avoiding hidden honey combs and voids.
Alternative is to find a local concrete sub that has done several ICF foundations. Look at some of his jobs, get referances, and eliminate your learning curve, by having him do the foundation.
Dave
It would be a waste to use ICF's for the garage. Not only is there more material cost, but you have to cover the exposed insulation, both inside and out. That makes more work and cost. What you cover the inside with will look cheesy and get beat up.
I'd recommend having a foundation contractor set up standard forms and pour away. It will save you lots of aggravation over trying to make your own.
Occasionally, the standard height of forms does not get you the wall height and frost depth you want. When that happened to me, we poured solid walls up to the top of the forms, and put a couple of courses of block on top, anchored with rebar.
Wayne has it right, but if you really want to use IFC's, go to the IFC panels, which are really just forms. IRC codebook covers them so you don't really have any structural issues for your short stemwall.
However, the IFC's are not cost effective for a stemwall, what with the external waterproofing issues and, as someone mentioned, finishing off the inside.