FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

ideas for radial arm table replacement?

| Posted in General Discussion on April 29, 2001 06:01am

*
Got a free Crapsman radial arm saw from the inlaws… it’s 20yrs old, but in great shape. Needs a new wood tabletop though, since the last one someone made for it is warped from sitting in the basement for 6 years. If I had my druthers, I’d have opted for a SCMS instead, but free is free, and I want to get this think up and running.

Anyone got creative ideas for making a new top for it?
I’ve got some 3/4 CDX laying around, but I was thinking maybe 3/4 particleboard would be more stable (ie constistantly flat). Maybe MDF?

New RA saws come with a fence that’s only like 5/8 high off the tabletop. I was thinking about a higher fence like 2″ for ease of clamping stop blocks, etc..

Creative ideas about fence design? Materials? Integrated dust colletcion?
Thanks.
-Stray

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Bill_Brennen | Apr 19, 2001 09:40pm | #1

    *
    Stray,

    I used to apply a sacrificial layer of Masonite over the 1" p.b. top on my 1981 Craftsman RAS, then replace when worn out. For the basic top, particle is fine, and 1" stays flatter than 3/4".

    Bill

    1. Phill_Giles | Apr 19, 2001 10:52pm | #2

      *I like UHMW polyethylene. Although I have done solid, a 1/2' sheet over 3/4 paricle board work fine. I usually make it up in several pieces joined with sliding dovetails so that I can replace the worn part without replacing the whole surface. Same material for the fence. From my experience, plywood makes a terrible top and straight particle board is so hard that the blade will actually try to follow a "rut" if you cut two angles very close together.

      1. nigel_martin | Apr 20, 2001 12:47am | #3

        *Check to see what the deal is with the Blade guard recall from craftsman. I just recieved my kit and included with it is a new table top. Its made from MDF. My old top is also MDF and works fine.

        1. Mike_M. | Apr 20, 2001 03:05am | #4

          *This one might sound a bit crazy, but it's pretty clever. A guy I used to work with replaced his with a 24" door. He skinned it with masonite which he'd replace from time to time when it got too scarred up. He got great stock support and would clamp in fences made from mdf. As I recall, he had a few different fences that were kerfed for different angles and such that he'd put in whenever he needed to, otherwise he'd replace the "regular" fence whenever it got too chewed up. Mike

          1. Chip_Tam | Apr 20, 2001 03:10pm | #5

            *Stray,As others have mentioned, I put a piece of 1/4" masonite over the table and have not had to replace the itself. I'm not sure if my table is particle board or MDF. Be careful about putting on a higher fence. You may find that the blade guard will not ride over it. I make new fences out of 3/4" pine and bevel the back edge so that the blade guard moves over it easilly.

          2. Stray_ | Apr 20, 2001 03:29pm | #6

            *Some good ideas, Thanks guys.Nigel, I hadn't heard anything about a recall. I'll contact the company today to see what's up. Thanks.Phil, Could you elaborate on what "UHMW poly" is? I hadn't thought about the hardness of PB being an issue. I was actually thinking about stepping up to Nova-ply, but sounds like that would compound the tracking problem you mentioned. Do you think MDF would have the same tracking issue?

          3. Phill_Giles | Apr 20, 2001 05:15pm | #7

            *UHMW poly is the white polyethylene that's sold in sheets and that's very popular for making jigs and fences. It machines beautifully with most of your standard power tools; causes almost no blade-wear; is dimensionally stable; and takes screws very well.The Emerson replacement table I received with my new guard was particle board, just like the original (required because the new guard takes up more space and the fence has to move forward) and I think I'll use it with a 1/4" poly covering: a fresh, unmarked table is a great opportunity to do this. As to the tracking. I was bothered for quite a while by the fact that the Sears RAS wouldn't alway track true. After being more careful about noting when this problem struck, I noticed that there were two occurances: a) when making a compound cut (mitre and bevel) on an area of the table that hadn't been used before; and, b) when making a mitre cut very close to previous cut (e.g. making a 43º mitre for the first time after making lots of 45's). In the first instance, the blade was deflecting up off the table; in the second, the blade would try to follow the 45º kerf for the first couple of inches out from the fence, then "chatter" over to a fresh track (this also caused the carriage to want to speed up as the blade bit into table. After three or four cuts a new kerf would be established and the deflection stopped. I wasn't happy with the solution of making several "practise" cuts before actually cutting stock because that's another 6/10 feet of wear on the blade for every cut, was time-consuming, and on general principal (okay, maybe the last item was the most important). I'm of the opinion that MDF wouldn't be nearly as problematic as particle board, but I like the poly surface and will just stubbornly stick with it. Even if you don't use the poly for the table, you'll be hard-pressed to find a better fence material and the ability to make a sacrificial insert (the part where the blade always goes through) and join it into the centre of the fence with sliding dovetails is a plus for me.

          4. Steve_Merrette | Apr 20, 2001 06:24pm | #8

            *Just for added information, UHMW stands for Ultra High Molecular Weight which is more important to Chem-E's and the likes than anyone else

          5. Stray_ | Apr 20, 2001 10:39pm | #9

            *Thanks for the responses Phil et all...Did some quick phone calls around the greater Ithaca,NY area (read: sticksville) The UHMW isn't available locally and would require a 1/hr trip... wanted to build this thing tonight. Perhaps when I'm in the area I can pick some up, and retrofit at a later date. Defintely sounds like the cat's _ss. I'm gonna do MDF for now.Thanks all.-Stray

          6. G.LaLonde | Apr 20, 2001 11:13pm | #10

            *I like to laminate a nice thick top made out of some kind of particle board. It is unlikely you will get any warping in your top if you do it this way. I cut the two or three pieces to size, glue them together and clamp them to the big , flat cast iron top on my table saw until it is dry. I never cut into the top itself. I lay a 1/4" sheet of particle board over the good top for all thru-cuts. When I need to make real accurate cuts (dados), I just remove the sheet and the work is laying on a nice flat surface. I use a piece of pine for a fence and slide it side to side depending on the job, so you have an accurate reference as to exactly where the blade is going to enter the workpiece when you place it on the table.The old radial arm still gets lots of use.

          7. calvin_ | Apr 21, 2001 03:05am | #11

            *you be careful of tampering with the height of the fence. Seems I remember a serious kickback when fence ht was increased. Radial saws have a much bigger grab than the scms. A good bench, at least to one side, that you don't put a bunch of stuff on is a pretty nice set up. Best of luck.

          8. Western_Tool_Nut | Apr 21, 2001 05:30am | #12

            *Stray-Check with a local highway sign shop the laminated ply they use make incredible tops for everything in your shop. I got a buddy who gives me scraps some as big as 3'x6' great tops. Low friction, things slide well, really damn durable, fairly water resistant, and very dense low void. Might be able to pick some up cheap.

          9. Frank_"Mad_Dog"_Maglin | Apr 22, 2001 02:24am | #13

            *WTN,I believe the product you are referring to is known as MDO plywood and in my area is available from the local lumberyard. And you're right about it being excellant for shop tops.Frank

          10. Stray_ | Apr 24, 2001 02:51pm | #14

            *Thanks for the good info all. I did call the company about the recall and they are sending my new blade guard. Free, but they said it would take 10-12 weeks.Built a new top out of MDF and protected with masonite as sugggested. The fence I built is 1 3/4" high; but once the new blade guard comes I'll see if that's too much for smooth operation and rip it down if necessary.Thanks,Stray

          11. Phill_Giles | Apr 24, 2001 05:14pm | #15

            *Stray, IMHO don't rip down the entire fence, just make a low part where the blade/guard passes through.

          12. Michael_Prisbylla | Apr 26, 2001 08:14am | #16

            *Just wanted to say that it's good to see that some are still using their Radial Arm Saws. I guess Sears didn't make enough crappy ones (including the $25 in my basement) to turn everyone off them. If you ever get the chance, use a DeWalt, one of the REALLY old ones. The GW models (with the rounded arm) are best but the ones produced into the early 60's with the square arms are pretty good, too. For the DIY people (where setup time isn't gong to affect your next paycheck) they are the bee's knees.Mike Prisbylla Loving those RAS's

          13. Bucksnort_Billy | Apr 27, 2001 01:37am | #17

            *Stray, In my experience, fence height and kickback aren't related. I make my fences as high as the motor will clear and still cut all the way through what your cutting. Just had the bearings replaced in my 10" Craftsman, and it's oh so smooth...And, I think the old DeWalts are the sweetest, and now made by Original?Oh yeah, take out some insurance before you rip with that thing...Holly

          14. nigel_martin | Apr 27, 2001 03:13am | #18

            *Just to bring you up to date, The recall center where to blade guards are coming from had orders for 3 MIllION in january. So much for the sears saw being junk.

          15. Phill_Giles | Apr 27, 2001 07:43am | #19

            *Wow, 3 million, and weren't all of these saws built before the mid-80's ?

          16. Stray_ | Apr 27, 2001 06:57pm | #20

            *Holly,I understand what you mean about the insurance policy before ripping with a RAS. Can be a scary proposition. Has anyone out there rigged up additional hold down arms, feeders, etc... to make this a bit less hair raising? I'm going to be ripping lots of 2X PT stock for a porch shed roof in a few weeks.Also, nobody bit on my question about integral dust collection in the table. I was thinking about a catch-box of sorts behyind the blade guard assembly...maybe with hose from the bottom and a "Y" fitting with one end attached to the dust port on the side of the blade guard and the other end in a shop vac...

          17. Phill_Giles | Apr 27, 2001 08:13pm | #21

            *I had the Sears "dust-box" on my machine for a while - wasn't impressed. I now have a catch-box I made from sheet metal (the kind they make duct-work from) with a 3" port at the bottom. This has about 1' of 3" pipe down to a wye with a 2" verticle pipe that's reduced to 1.25" about 1' above table height and a flex hose goes from there to the dust-port on the guard. At the bottom of the wye is a reducer that takes the diameter up to 4" for connection to my 1200cfm dust-collector. A friend just has one of those portable dust-ports (4" x 12" square funnel that sits on a stand and attachs directly to the dust-collector) he positions just behine the saw: can't say for sure; but, that portable dust-port looks like it works just as well as the rig I built, for about the same cost, and didn't take a couple of days to fabricate.

          18. Bucksnort_Billy | Apr 28, 2001 01:16am | #22

            *Stray, get a table saw, I know I'd feel better about your safety.You're not biting, I'll bet. Ok, I have some "Yellow Wheels" that only rotate one way and hold the stock down and to the fence, this is especially helpful when you're running moulding...on to the dust collection...I don't bevel with my saw, so I get away with a box a little larger than my non-replaceable guard, right behind the blade when it stops traveling... In my case, I hooked the central vac up through the bottom. When I have the energy to turn the vac on, it works pretty well. I, unlike other incredibly opinionated but otherwise funloving dickheads, like radial arm saws, and have done some pretty weird things with them.And though I thoroughly dismiss any of my methods as safe, I'd be glad to email you some experiences...

          19. Mike_M. | Apr 28, 2001 02:56am | #23

            *Stray-I used to do a lot of ripping on my RAS. I put together a dedicated fence that I'd use whenever ripping. Made it a few inches high and put in a couple of pieces of t-track and used featherboards with it. Also clamped featherboards to the table. Used the same basic setup on a different fence for use with a moulding head. Had pretty decent luck with both. Admittedly, ripping on the RAS has never been what I would describe as a relaxing experience, even with the safety precautions. Never had any bad experiences, fortunately. Even though now I leave the ripping to the table saw, it's good to know the RAS is there. I'll second Holly's take on the RAS. I think they're great tools that allow for some very interesting approaches. Before I bought a table saw, all I had was the RAS I inherited from my father. I don't think I even began to scratch the surface of what could be done with it, but did enough to appreciate it's flexibility. Never did throw down for the yellow wheels like Holly, but always thought they seemed worthy of checking out. Dust collection is a tough one. I ended up making a frame out of 1x stock and skinned it with masonite. It basically encapsulates the back of the saw, leaving enough space to swing the arm in either direction. It angles away from the top of the saw allowing the dust to be redirected towards the bottom where it gets funneled into the collection port. It looks like I stood a stove vent hood up on end and connected a hose to it. It seems to work pretty well. Mike

          20. Stray_ | Apr 29, 2001 06:01pm | #24

            *Thanks to all for the great ideas and experiences...Holly, I am biting on the table saw idea actually. There's a thread here about a couple used Inca's but I think that's above my budget. I'm looking for a used Uni or even delta contractor model.... but I have to rip some wood with the RAS before I'll find a table saw...All was well until my father retired and moved his complete cabinet shop to the next state (maybe I was playing with his toys too much!. Now have to bit the bullet and amass my own playground.Mike, Like the idea about the higher fence and feather boards. I'll try that one before I head for the yellow wheels.Stray

  2. Stray_ | Apr 29, 2001 06:01pm | #25

    *
    Got a free Crapsman radial arm saw from the inlaws... it's 20yrs old, but in great shape. Needs a new wood tabletop though, since the last one someone made for it is warped from sitting in the basement for 6 years. If I had my druthers, I'd have opted for a SCMS instead, but free is free, and I want to get this think up and running.

    Anyone got creative ideas for making a new top for it?
    I've got some 3/4 CDX laying around, but I was thinking maybe 3/4 particleboard would be more stable (ie constistantly flat). Maybe MDF?

    New RA saws come with a fence that's only like 5/8 high off the tabletop. I was thinking about a higher fence like 2" for ease of clamping stop blocks, etc..

    Creative ideas about fence design? Materials? Integrated dust colletcion?
    Thanks.
    -Stray

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

An Easier Method for Mitered Head Casings

Making mitered head casings is a breeze with this simple system.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details
  • A New Approach to Foundations
  • A Closer Look at Smart Water-Leak Detection Systems
  • Guest Suite With a Garden House

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data