Hello,
I’m building a covered porch that will have about 10 or so skylights in it (approx 90 lf of roof). I’m planning on building the skylights myself. Now, I’ve done this about 25 years ago by building a wood box, screwing and silicone caulking plexiglass to it and flashing it well.
Does anyone have any good ideas on making sklyights with tempered glass (does not need to be thermal pane since it is basically an unheated space (will eventually be a screened in porch)?
Also, what type and thickness of glass is best?
I do have access to the FHB article (via the CD) on flush glazing, but I was looking for a design similar to what I had made in the past, but with glass rather than plexiglass. Mabey I could use polycarbonate?
Thanks,
Roger <><
Thanks,
Replies
The big one over our shower I made from some specialty aluminum extrusion I found, that I chop-sawed to make a frame, then used a sliding glass door replacement panel (cheap) for the glass. Pierces a shallow roof, so I made cant strips from 2x for a curb and continued my roofing membrane up on to it.
Forrest
When I last did this - also 25 years ago or so - I found a source for used or reject (minor scratches, etc.) sliding door glass. Made great skylights, even with the 4' wide stuff, basically like you describe. Not sure how I'd build one today, but I'm sure Grace materials would be in the mix somewhere...
Of course, even though it's tempered, on plain sheets (without the door frame) the edges require kid glove handling - don't ask me how I know :-(
I did a built-in skylight many years ago and learned from my mistakes. And I learned more from seeing how another carpenter did it.
Your description sounds like the method I would use now. Build a 2X frame into the roof, leaving the frame far enough above the roof to allow for flashing or a saddle, depending on pitch. Cut the glass so that it will overhang the frame by four to six inches, all around, particularly the top. Flash the frame. Use masking tape to make a target on the glass. Apply a generous amount of silicone chalk to the frame. Lay the glass in place and press it down until the silicone is fully mated to the glass.
That method is insane! It would look like hell and there is nothing to keep the glass from being lifted off in a high wind and potentially hurting somebody.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Whaddafug on you on about? Silicone chaulk is an excellent adhesive. It was originally engineered for glazers, back in the sixties. I've seen this method used without problem for thirty-some years. I wouldn't hesitate to do the job this way myself, under the circumstances described. It's very simple and economical.
We're in complete agreement.
It's cheap!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I have built a couple of sky lights from recycled glass.
Never hung it out six inches????
Ugly and not to good in a 70 mph wind.
With that wind comes rain. Not a good mix for the inside of the house,or the guy that lives next door, or maybe the next block over.
I've done a good thousand of them. Normally would recommend Velux but you seem to have the background.
I think you should still include one or two Velux ventilating units 'cause it will get HOT in there with so much roof glass.
Statrt by calling around to see if you can find a source for used thermal glass from sliding doors. Check the glass shps and the Andersen distributer...
Buy an extra one or tw to keep around in case a tree falls or the baseball team gtets a hit. Since you are the manufacturer, you need to think ahead on that.
Frame the box to the same exterior dimensions as the glass and flash it first with Vycor, then with metal.. Make the flashing come to the top of the curb. Then make a piece of drip metal that is an L so it lays smooth atop the box and down over the base flashing a couple inches. Use butyl tape to seat the glass on top of this.
Then make another flashing piece of L metal ( I think I am going to have to draw this but you'll have to wait till tonight) to go over the glass with silicone or clear Geocel and down just as low as the first piece of flashing. Use some metal roofing washered screws to afix this final pioece to the sides. since you are screwing thru at least three layers of metal here, predrilling is a good idea. This final piece only goes on the sides and the top. Let the water run free off the bottom without impediment.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Thank you for the detailed description. especially the tips on flashing and butyl tape
A few years back, Taunton published a collection of FHB articles on windows and skylights. IIRC, there's a couple of articles in there on site built fixed skylights.