If you were building your own home…
I was wondering what if any new technologies/ finishes/ systems you professionals would choose to use if you were building a new house for yourself.
I am not a builder, in the trades or an architect but these are a few things that have caught me eye:
Good stucco finishes. I don’t like most brick finishes and some of the better new houses look very sleek and clean.
Steel roof tiles. I have been very impressed by some I have seen.
Got to have a central vacuum.
Heat exchanger. Need that fresh air.
Radiant floor heating.
Those foundation systems that use foam blocks and pumped in cement look like a promising technology.
Engineered I beams and tongue and groove floor systems. I hate squeaky floors.
In cities where space is at a premium and the trend is to build up I think new homes should have a mini elevator or lift. If I were a builder I’d add one in every house I built.
Comments, criticisms, suggestion?
Replies
We built one we are in now 1972, some experience since.
1. Top of the list that you did not show, highest Qual carpetvthat does not show stains. Just remarked yesterday when # 3 GK spilled on carpet that the varigated pattern ($22/ yard in 1974 - a MAJOR expense) rust/gold/orange pattern may not be the vouge today, but sure has been cost effective!!
other comments to list you have provided:
Good stucco finishes. Well wood was so cheap here then I did cedar siding, so no comment on your choice.
Steel roof tiles. --AH AH AH -- in Pac NW with DF needles, if you like trees, forget it, Rain+needles = rustthru; in a few years, otherwise don't know;. Know of one steel roof put in in 1979, got some St. Helens ashfall, rusted thru next winter!
Got to have a central vacuum. PTUI, IMHO
Heat exchanger. Need that fresh air. GOOD decision
Radiant floor heating. We did HP and FA, for a climate with few <40F temp swings a good choice, do your trades for your climate.
Those foundation systems that use foam blocks and pumped in cement look like a promising technology. "Promising" is a key word BEWARE!!!
Engineered I beams and tongue and groove floor systems. I hate squeaky floors. Whatever else screw and glue!! we did #1/better Dfir + 1/2 ply-15#felt - 2nd layer 1/2 ply )-- SO, Screw and glue - we did ring shank nails that held up for over 25 years with no squeaks, first 6.7 earthquake and suddenly the house had about 10 squeaks.
In cities where space is at a premium and the trend is to build up I think new homes should have a mini elevator or lift. If I were a builder I’d add one in every house I built. Good prescience _ Grandma (DW) will need a 'retrofit' in a few years or an EV.
One pet peeve of mine - They're I-joists, not I-beams.
I-joists are wood.
I-beams are steel.
We're like 2 ships that pass in the night.
Two ships that can never decide what movie to see, but other than that we're just like 2 ships.
I couldn't find the tread with your nut bag client, so I'll post it here,
What ever happened to mr overkill?View ImageGo Jayhawks..............Next Year and daaa. Blues View Image
I did an update a while back.
The house came in over budget, and he did some revisions. I figure he's got one more revision in there nefore he builds it.
I didn't keep track of the thread either.......You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
I am currently adding an addition to my own house. I`m using several of the "new technologies" as I go along.
Engineered lumber (LVLs)....although Im not sold on "I" joists.
7/8" T&G subflooring....supposedly eliminates a second layer of ply for carpeted areas.
Cement siding....this is gonna be a dream, or a nightmare....Im not sure which.
Considering pouring my own concrete countertops. (somebody feel free to talk me out of it!)
Currently looking into paving my driveway with compressed, recycled materials.
Although a budget concern, I`m contemplating the srayed foam insulation.
Looking into the high volume central air systems.
Should I finish this project within the next five years....I`ll report back to you after ten.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
looking into paving my driveway with compressed, recycled materials
As you check with paving contractors, ask if they have experience with macadam (or MacAdam for the purists). The technique of pressing material into a bituminous binder makes it easier to use "recycled" material. Note, the paving trades occasionally use the term "recycled" to mean material from ground up pavement--not shredded tires, or the like.
Another option worth looking into is "grasscrete" (or grassblock). This is the concrete paving that looks like a grid. Grass is allowed to grow through the openings--landscape ordinanes have become increasingly more strict. For a driveway, though, you could finish with pea gravel for the color & texture (or ground up quartzite or paving to better reuse materials).
Edited 4/25/2003 5:35:53 PM ET by CapnMac
The one thing I hate is not being able to see out a window...I'm 6'3", not tall enough for the NBA by any means...and I hate having to walk to a window and move the crazy curtains/valance to look out...especially up at the sky. I have 10' ceilings in my place I am building...and the window headers were at 8'4" so I can just reach them when standing on the floor. And I can look up at the sky anytime...I'm an astronomer, maybe that's an unsual desire.
Are you using a 'transom' unit, or are you just installing taller windows (or higher sills)? If there is a nearby door, you might consider a transom for it (so that its trim aligns with the taller windows.
Yep, I have 8' doors as well. With the scale of everything, it's funny, nothing seems "extra big" or whatnot. Then you walk up to a window...and just look out the big casement...and see the outdoors! THAT'S what I like in a window...no fake divided lights, no double hungs, big open casements!
And yes, I'll have to admit, my 8' door and my windows don't exactly match. One design flaw I guess I made. The windows are just the taller models than most...I set the sill by measuring my youngest daughters eyeballs to the floor...LOL.
Yep, one of those mistakes I made...I don't notice...maybe everyone else is too kind to point it out.
Neat walking through an 8' French door and not having any clue that it is really oversized compared to most.
one of those mistakes I made
If you don't notice, it's not a mistake.
Tall windows or doors are an opportunity for cool trim. If you have a band or waterline trim, you can extend windows up to that point, and it reinforces the "design" effect. If you have a trim band on the "not taller" items, you can make a transition at the difference to show off your trim skill. Ok, so I am biased, I like to "connect" rooms with many doors and windows with a trim detail along the head trim. Some times, this is just backbanding to simulate a picture rail. (Fancy arkitek term is "fenestration.") For very tall rooms, this gives a "human scale' reference. It is also a point for changing wall decor or color, if desired. If I have a wall with 8' french doors, I'm going to give them a trim to match.
On the outside, those taller openings give a great opportunity to add a trim detail, or a pergola, or some other "value added" feature. Or, run a pergola at the "normal" height, this gives a "clerestory" effect to a window.
If I install it, it's a design effect--not an error. If I'm remodeling, it's a design improvement (or refinement)--not an error (incase the HO is the one who installed it that way). <grin>
Thanks for the info Capn...much apreciated.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
>I was wondering what if any new technologies/ finishes/ systems you professionals would choose to use if you were building a new house for yourself.
I love the computerized lighting systems that let you control lights from anywhere and let you have "scenes" with ramp up and down. They're just so....civilized. Pricey, but still...
Cloud, I"m a industrial maintenance electrician who has seen more than his share of fancy lighting systems. Had a GE Lutron that did not last as long as the bulbs it was to control.Cost $600 to replace. Numerous blown electronic ballasts , low voltage fixtures that are impossible to get parts for.Bottom line is that lighting is very "trendy" and often more effort is put into aesthetics than reliability. That said I like remote controlled fans and many of the new flouresant dimmers seem to be destined to be standard equip soon.l
I've used the LiteTouch system, which is too darned expensive, but awfully well designed, at least from the user point of view. It seemed easy to install as well, and has been reliable from the first day. I can't speak for the things you've seen, but when they work right, they are incredibly convenient.
I daydream about my next house.
ICE blocks with stucco finish
More electrical capacity
Radiant in floor hydronic heat
Universal design for future elder living
Design details to eliminate rot and painting as much as possible.
Low slope roof with EPDM and deck to enjoy view
Excellence is its own reward!
1) Central vac
2) Radiant Floor heat
3) Wire the house for sound w/ area for home theater
4) detached garage w/ climate controlled workshop
ICF's for the walls, from the footings to the ridge. A front porch with a good overhang.
Not big on stucco, cement board is growing on me.
Web style floor joists - look similar in structure to trusses, 10' ceilings in the basement.
No door under 2-8, actual woodwork, like you see in bungalows where there's built ins and trim doesn't mean just base & case. Windows with aprons & stools, tall baseboards, radiant heat, a garage big enough to put two cars, the bikes, trash cans, etc in. This 20 x 22 stuff they do here just doesn't cut it with anyone who drives something bigger than an Accord.
I'm ok with the plain old asphalt shingles, but depending on where I was in the country, I'd be open to others. Spanish tile looks good with some southern architecture. Steel seems big in some parts of snow country, MT & WY for example, with a steep pitch, nothing sits there for long.
Saw a concrete home the other day, fairly impressive. Guy was an engineer for a local concrete company and built it about 30 years ago. All the floors were pre stressed panels, everything on the exterior was slump block, roof was tile. Said he'd had thousands of people walk through there over the years. Sold a good deal of concrete products commercially as a result. I liked a lot of what I saw. Well insulated, dead quiet, nothing had moved in 30 years. The riddle for the day - it had wood base, window casing, and crown mold.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
One of the most cost effective items I've found that no one has mentioned is:
The first thing that goes up is your free standing (or even possably attached, if done carefully) garage/shed/barn/workshop - whatever you call it.
It has to be built right the first time - just as good of construction as the house. Build in the workbench, storage, air, electrical, and a can if allowed. Lockable, of course.
The savings in storage, convenience, and efficiency should at least pay for half of it let alone shortening the build time.
I dream about the home . Then better sense takes over like a virus. Build sqaure footage economically, not frills . Most people move on to another house in a few years. Dont make the move a loss. Theres nothing wrong with making money. Plan the house with the neiborhood and need of client base . Its pretty cool to build a new house and enjoy it for a few years then cash in a healthy crop.
"Not only did it not cost me anything to live here for 5 years , but I got this great big ole nest egg for doing it !"
Tim Mooney
OK
I am building my dream house..
First why use expensive engineered wood when timbers will last much longer?
Second.. build it like a thermos bottle so it's cheap to heat and keep cool. (thus use SIPS {structural insulated panels})
Third, Build with decay resistance wood so it will out last how long it took to grow the trees that were used to build it with, (sustainability)
Forth, Build with local products whenever possible. Cheaper and better..
Gimmicks like built in vacs , fancy lighting, and computer controlled systems generally won't last as long as it takes to pay them off..
Stone as an exterior takes a long time to wear out and doesn't require too much painting..
I agree about the need for an elevator in multi story homes.. It makes the differance as to weither you can retire in a home or not. For my "elevator" I'm using the mast off a fork lift with a hydraulically driven pump.. Sould cost under $1000.00
"For my "elevator" I'm using the mast off a fork lift with a hydraulically driven pump.. Sould cost under $1000.00"
Cool idea. Any pics?
Pictures!!!!!
AAAAUUUUGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
I hate pictures!
I've repeated told how I damage lose or destroy cameras.. I've evan average less than a third of a roll per disposable that actually comes out..
recently I took pictures of my house and had them put onto a CD disk to post here..
well there they are, in the computer.. somehow I can't get them on the web.. Guys here have posted instructions step by step and I followed step by step..
no pictures..
Monday I broke down and bought a Nikon digital camera.. took some pictures and well
I Hate Cameras!!!!!!!!
Is it Vampires that don't appear on film when their pic is taken? Are you related somehow to some of those folks?
Joe H
I'm a Dampier, not a Vampier...;-)
actually there are very few pictures of me around except for some old ones down at the post office...;-)
my next home will have less wood
Concrete?
There is one built here using the foam forms and I believe where termits are a danger there is much attraction to building with that..
I would start with rough sawn lumber from an accurate mill, prefereably fir in the West or Eastern Hemlock in the east. The walls would be double framed, 2x4 at 24" centers on a 2x8 plate.
Wall sheathing and roof sheathing would be 1x rough sawn boards. roof would be skip sheathed and a standing seam galv. roof, 28g. minimum
Siding would be #1 cedar shingles, woven corners, with cedar or fir wood for window/ door casings. Red rosin for wind paper, good galv drip on all casing heads. A homemade danish oil finish, left natural.
Wall and ceiling insulated with dense pack/blown in cells, with radiant barrier on inside.
Double hung wood windows
The house would be about 1200sqft for my family of three.
d-select pine and plaster for interior finish. oiled not painted
Since I am a framer and I'm looking into buying/building my first house, here are some things that I normally see in the spec houses I build (and will be buying) and how I would change or improve them:
1) Make sure housewrap is done right, especially wround rough openings, and ensure all penetrations are completely and properly flashed.
2) Eliminate vaulted ceiling in living room and possibly put a box or turtleback ceiling in its place. Lower-cost option would be to just have a 9' flat ceiling with some built-up crown molding.
3) No special ceiling in master bath.
4)Turtleback or box ceiling with crown molding in master bedroom.
5) Ensure plywood is nailed properly on walls and roof. (I know this is something that the inspectors should catch but they normally don't.)
the only trouble with stick built homes is the thermal bridge every 16 inches.. Walls that are rated at R19 actually test out between R5 and R6. They are easy to bang to gether with a nail gun, but lack real strength/ durability/ efficency and fire safety..
Can you thermally debridge a wood stud? Perhaps a foam tape?
Evan SIPs are not absolutely free of thermal bridges. to provide the strength needed there is a 2x at the top and bottom plate. In addition there are 2x's surrounding windows (however there is usually not the need for headers which have vertually zero R value.
Foam is used but more as a air break then a thermo break at the top and bottom plate in the form of sill sealer. It goes Sill sealer, bottom plate and SIP and then SIP top plate and sill sealer..
If you were to use foam sill sealer to break the thermo bridge, as the nails draw the wood tight the thermo break would return..
frenchy,
Check out this website. They've got some good stuff on insulation/moisture retention-the classic Breaktime argument. Lots of climate specific solutions with good graphics.
http://www.buildingscience.com/
I did, and I'm not certain what you'd like me to look at.?
Frenchy,
"Walls that are rated at R19 actually test out between R5 and R6."
I think you're going a little overboard. The thermal bridge in a stud wall is a factor, but it doesn't cut the R value to one third. The actual loss is closer to 20%, at the worst.
While your SIP's don't have this problem, one can achieve the same results with stick framing. It just takes a little more thought and time.
http://hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/97/970308.html#97030808
http://hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/99/991110.html#99111005
Jon Blakemore
That is the actual numbers in a side by side comparison done by Brock college.. 68% greater actual r value with a 2x6 stick built home to a 4 inch thick SIP.. Both built by the same crew to the same standards.. Identical houses built to the same floor plan.. right next to each other so they both have the same exposure
I suspect part of the differance comes from the inevitable gaps where the insulation isn't quite properly installed and the differance with airflow between fiberglass insulation and Foam insulation..
It would be silly to attempt to blow thru a foam block, yet I can take a fiberglas batt and easily blow thru it. (yes the vapor barrier will act as a block) but since heat will always migrate from warm to cold, the Higher perms (I believe that's the word) of foam afford the advantages over fiberglas..
I guess for proof I offer your coffee thermos.. they make those with foam for better heat retention..
I don't intend to come off as a smart aleck and I'm sorry that I tend to preach about this subject but I've spent a great deal of time and research on this subject and feel rather passionate about it..
Edited 4/25/2003 10:01:44 PM ET by frenchy
That is the advantage of a double stick wall...no thermal bridge except at the top plate. And though one does lose some thermal efficiency with stud framing, it is not near as drastic as you make out to be.
A properly framed and built stick wall will last at least 150 years if not longer if the proper materials are used. There is real strength and durability as well a much better adaptability for changes. Blown-in cells eliminates, or at least greatly reduces the fire potential .
Timber frame walls are nice and go one better for durability and strength, but I like the added versatility of stick-builtwalk good
I certainly gotta admit that a stick built home is faster to bang together. and a double frame wall does eliminate much of the problem of thermal bridging..
A good vapor barrier and you've eliminated another of the objections to stick building.
However the problem of insulation settling remains in any blown in system.. I've taken my share of homes apart with blown in insulation to find settleing of various amounts, sometimes really great amounts (I'm certain the care and experiance of the installer makes the differance)
The final issue with stick built has to do with strength. most Stick built homes are assembled using trusses that are toenailed into the top plate. according to an article in fine home building, a properly assembled truss will take 308 foot pounds to remove.. Just about the amount a level one tornado will generate.. Once the roof is off the walls blow down and there is no more home..
Use of the correct Simpson connectors can strengthen that to over 3000 pounds if installed correctly.. (but rarely ever done because of the time involved).. However a properly designed timber frame will dramatically increase evan those numbers..
using a simple calculation I was able to determine that it would take in the order of 15,000 pounds to remove one of my timber framed trusses..
Fire,
Toss a 2x4 into a fire and note how long it takes to burn to the point where it won't support it's own weight.. Now toss a 12"x12" white oak timber into the fire and note the point where it won't support it's own weight..
while there are smaller timbers in my home, (6"x6" is about the smallest) the point I'm making should be obvious..
Hopefully I don't come across as some know it all, rather a zealot who wants to preach the gospel according to Ted Benson.. ;-)
frankly few homes are built as timberframes because of the labor involved.. I can tell you that the material cost is much lower, and the strength is several magnatudes higher.. but there I go again preachin'
sorry..
Frenchy, you're making us feel really bad. We're already so jealous as it is and you keep coming up with more.
Did you do any embellishments on your interior timbers? Carvings, routings, edgings - what are they called?
Now that your frame has been heated a bit, how has been your experience with checking of the various species you've used?
I've done a few little embellishments on the inside but no where near what I'll wind up with in the end. My main concern is to finish the outside this summer so my poor neighbors don't have to look at equipment, scaffolding, and tar paper anymore.
Then this winter I can finally do those burled floors I spoke about three years ago.
My neighbor who hasn't spoken to me in well over a year spoke last weekend after I put the first bits of stone up and she could see what it would look like when finished. Maybe once the outside is finished and the grass growing, others in the neighborhood might see fit to speak to me again..
As for being jealous of me, why? are you wacko too? I mean nobody needs to build a house this strong, Nobody needs to build a house out of hardwoods, and nobody should be as annal as I am about sealing the heat in..
As for checking,,.......
what a disappointment. I carefully air dried the timbers to eliminate checking but once I heated the timbers a bit, some really big checks developed. My fault really, I was far more concerned with putting the best features of each beam to it's best expossure. If there was a nice bit of tiger stripe, burl, or flame, that was the side featured. Occasionally it resulted in a check featured too, because I concentrated too much on the wood and not enough on where the heart was closest to the surface..
the very next one I build ;-)
Tell me more..
Are you saying if the closest side to the heart is facing the primary view, there'll be less of noticable checks?
Have you noticed any difference between species? How's that walnut hold up to checks?
Am I wacko, too? Most here seem to think so...
Edited 4/25/2003 11:01:07 PM ET by stonefever
well jon arno could answer better than myself, however since the wood tends to shrink when it dries it and the center dries last it follows that the greatest stress will be from the inside out.. the heart is the center of the tree and wood will check (crack) where it is weakest which is whichever side is closest to the heart..
white oak as a species seems to check a lot and there is relativly little checking on any of the black walnut.. I saw a hickory tree that was on the log pile at the sawmill and it had neatly split itself in two.. so as a species hickory seems to be the most prone to checking.
I'm glad to find I'm not the only wacko in the bunch.. but I'm certain compared to me you have a minor level of wacko-ness. Heck, you're probably allowed out in polite company..
I agree with you about timber frames as being a better frame construction. Actually have built a few and very much enjoy them.
But I am thinking of my "dream house"....quick and easy to build by myself, energy efficient , pleasing asthetics, and durable. All these are met by stick-built.
..... faster to bang together..... yes that is too often true, but not my house. And the point hold true for your issues of strength. But if your timber frame joints are sloppy or poorly designed, the frame will be considerably compromised. Same as with stick frame.
It is so dependent on the choice and application of materials and the skill and devotion to quality that makes or breaks a house.
walk good
well I took a belt and suspenders approach to framing my house.. while I took great care to ensure tight joints I also used hidden lag bolts to ensure safety..
In the event of a fire the weakest link between timbers is the trenail (or wooden peg) when that burns thru the timbers fall down.. What I did was to conform to German requirements for insulated metal connectors. Hiding my lags behind false wooden pegs. since I'm using Oak and Black walnut two wood species that are corrosive to steel, I used stainless steel. hardened 18/8 grade stainless steel..
The mortice and tenions would take a very long time to fail on their own but in conjunction with the hidden stainless steel fasteners we are talking about a level of safety that I feel certain would satisfy earthquake requirements..
You are absolutely correct in the time differrential between stick built and timberframed homes..
In stick building you grab a 2x4 and align it and bang bang the nail gun has it connected.. In timberframing it may take 8 hours or more per timber to prepare it to be put in place and then with my belt and suspenders approach another two hours toassemble it and connect with lag bolts..
I guess the real differance is that a timberframe can be a legacy while a stick built will provide a much quickor home..
.....real differance is that a timberframe can be a legacy while a stick built will provide a much quickor home.. ..
I admire your tenacity in your attempt to establish the superiority of your timber frame. And I can not argue in general....though you may be speaking of the negative, "that accursed house"
A house can become a legacy; in part because of design, but just as important are the quality of materials and the skill and devoyion to quality of the carpenter(s).
As far as materials, I do not have the option of white oak or black walnut here in Montana. Of the indigenous woods I choose doug fir. Actually a beautiful wood to work with for framing and finish. Make a nice timber frame as well.
As far as your support for SIPs, I would be willing to wager, that a properly built blown-in dense pack, board sheathing, etc as I have described will outlast your SIP panel, in durability, energy efficiency and expense.
walk good
Very fair point.. I would not advocate that in your location you build a timberframe using oak or Black walnut. (here I have to show my ignorance, but whenever I drove thru Montana I never noticed an abundance of hardwoods nor actually many trees at all.. ) so since the forests of the west are where your wood will come from it probably does make sense to stick build.
Yes Fir is a nice wood with a lot of great properties. Sorry, if I sounded like I said otherwise.. Since we don't grow fir here in minnesota, it wouldn't make sense to use it here..
regarding SIPs, since the life of foam not exposed to UV light seems to be in excess of a thousand years.. and since foam has a much higher R value per inch in at least two points I think we could have a spirited debate..
I concede the cost issue since I paid $3.00 a sq.ft. for my panels.. I'm certain that blown in insulation would be cheaper..
.....using a simple calculation I was able to determine that it would take in the order of 15,000 pounds to remove one of my timber framed trusses.....
But consider this...your rafter post/ beam bent are probably at say 10 foot centers, whereas my rafter will be at 16". So for that 10 feet span I will have 8 rafters each will a tie down rated at 875# (Simpson H-9). Still not equal to your hold down, but it is spread out evenly over the 10 feet.
walk good
Actually 4 foot centers... on a 6"x12" white oak top plate.. (yes,,, I'm seriously wacko)
I'm very glad to hear you plan on using connectors I visit 5 to 10 new homes per day for the past 11 plus years only twice have I seen connectors used between the trusses and top plate. (One was a real high end home in La Jolla Calif.. that used 2x8's doubled wall contruction with two inches between walls),
Why are you spec'ing board sheathing? Is it an adhesive issue? Also, all walls w/GWB over OSB. Good fire resistance and you can hang a oicture anywhere? Otherwise, you've spec'd my dreamhouse.
mike
Why are you spec'ing board sheathing?
I have to agree with clevispin, here, why? I live in a house with 1x6 T&G (on 1 5/8 x 3 5/8 2x4s, too). You can't tell the walls are wood sheathed as they are either covered with 3/8 sheetrock or 1/4" 4x8 paneling (thankfully painted over, until I can rip it down & replace). The trim all has jamb extensions (butted in during the install, not planned-for wider stock) to complicate matters. Cutting in outlets is a pain, later, too. With the tongue-in-groove joints, the house creaks in unique ways, too.
If you mean exposed sheathing, that would be different.
And, as a ceiling material, it is less-than ideal, 'telegraphing' every dip and bend in the boards (except where covered in sheetrock, then it just cracks at the joints summer and fall).
I run my sheathing on the outside of the house not inside. I do like wood wainscot inside, but it is not any different than drywall or other inside wall material as far as cutting out outlets, etc. In fact it can be so much easier. I like plaster and wood for the very reasons you seem to dislike it...it is unique, it has a texture a pattern other than uniformity. And over time, as the house ages yes it can and may talk to you. It should it is or should be so much more than a box.
walk good
Oh, ok. My own house has 1x6 T&G on almost all surfaces, outside sheathing, inside walls, subfloor, ceiling, and roof deck--1 5/8 x 3 5/8 [strong] studs, too--very well built in 1951.
Wood on the outside has many advantages, as you point out. Here in Texas, we wrap the outside to keep the humidity out, not the inside to keep it in. This, occasionally causes some confusion of technique. (Like all southern glass in Houston is a bad idea, heat gain not really needed with 200+ cooling degree days . . . )
Having a house that "speaks" is one of the best reasons to frame floors in wood (expansive soils cracking slab-on-grade is another, despite s-o-g being 'standard practice').
I dislike engineered wood products for many reasons, one being the adhesives. Many are environmental issues. I like wood for building because it is a great , natural, long lasting ..etc.......material.
I like board sheathing for several reasons; first off it allows a natural mitigation of moisture to the outside. building standard materials today have the outside of your wall less permeable than the inside.
second, it offers a far superior nailing for siding, especially shingles.
third, building with wood is enjoyable, even by oneself. building a house/home should be a craft, not a construction job. walk good
Bit off the topic, since this has more to do with technique than materials/goodies...
About six years ago, I started wiring my houses so that every room is on it's own circuit (plus individual circuits for DW, disposal, etcetera. Uses a lot of wire, but it makes it a snap to work on/retrofit, and I never blow a breaker. I can have outlets whereever I want them. I'd do that again.
I'd look into running my non-electrical cable in conduit from the attic down. I know newer technologies will come into being in the future for cable/phone/sound system, and being able to replace or add new wiring through a conduit would be SOOOO nice... 'course by then, everything will be wireless, but I won't have lost much.
Before I hung drywall or insulated, I'd take video of every room. When you're remodeling (which I seem to do constantly, whether it's needed or not), it's nice to know exactly where all the pipes, ducts, wires, and studs are located, after you've forgotten.
My last house, I insulated the interior walls on virtually every room. Very nice and quiet. I've even used solid core doors in some interior locations for the same reason. Sometimes the kids don't need to hear what's going on in every room.... and I don't always want to be hearing the Disney channel when I'm trying to read.
No new technologies... I've gotten burned being an early adopter of synthetic decks, laminate flooring, and so on. Once something has been out long enough to get the bugs worked out (and the installers to get conpetent), I'll buy it (usually a couple years). till then, forget it.
Just my thoughts. I'm learning lots on this thread.
I agree with your suggestions in general.
But I would rather use one 20 amp circuit for recptacle and maybe put them in 2 rooms and a separate circuit for lighting for two rooms and that might be 15 amp. If you are running many 3-way/4-way circuits it is alot easier to handle #14 for that.
And by spliting up the recptacles from the lighting you can working an area and shut off one circuit, but still have the other available.
Excellent thread. Relates to why I like and read this forum.
I have one comment and a question.
The reason that metal roofs are becoming increasingly popular in this Wyoming area is durability over wood or asphalt shingles with our dry humidity and extreme hot/cold cycles. Where the NW area may have rust problems, we just wish we could get enough moisture to keep the wind blown dirt washed out of the gutters. We will have to learn how to manage the snow discharge from the occasional heavy snow fall (lots of squished shrubs and mashed kids toys after the first experience with said storms).
The question I have is: Would the extra expense in running all wiring in conduit be worth it for future modifications to possible remodel upgrades or repairs? I wondering mostly about changes communication and entertainment methods but also possible future lighting/power needs. After all, who knows what will change in the next 20 or so years, evidence being what has happened in the last twenty.
Thanks in advance for your input.
Doug
.....We will have to learn how to manage the snow discharge from the occasional heavy snow fall (lots of squished shrubs and mashed kids toys after the first experience with said storms).......
If you build with roofs of 10/12 0r even 12/12 and use a standing seam style metal roofing, one can greatly reduce the avalanche syndrom. Also minimize any protusions from the roof plane. our house has a 10/12 pitch and even with the old delta ribbed style (screw down) we have minimal avalaches, except where the dormers allow snow to accumulate.
As far as electrical up grades and/or changes. The idea of running conduit would only be appealing if it were left exposed. Otherwise one would be creating more work with additions. It is usually easy enough to fish a length of romex, etc for a new fixture. If kept it all in conduit, one would have to open up the wall to add the additional conduit, boxes etc.
For whole house upgrades, that is a whole other story and I do not think conduit would facillitate the process at all.
In general, when planning electrical etc wiring, think of changes when you place your panels. Try to run through attic or floor bays where access may be easier. Then if you want to upgrade a new wire, it may be easier to fish the new one through.
walk good
Local code and other considerations force me to put my wiring in conduit or armor cable. In my opinion if you don't need to do it, don't waste your time.. and money.
Most interior walls are sheet rock.. not very expensive to tear out if needed for access. Who knows what the future will require for things like phones/faxs etc.. If you go too big then you have some serious expenses involved and if you go too small you may need to push a connector end thru it that won't fit..
In addition, how would it be possible to know where the ends would be required in the future? If you end on the north wall and future requirements are for the south wall you'll need to do the same amount of work if you didn't have the conduit..
Another words tryoing to anticipate the unknown is not very efficent or effective..
Octagonal timberframe with octagonal cupola overlooking either Penobscot bay and Camden harbor or Mt Kineo on Moosehead lake,or Bras D'Or lake in Cape Breton N.S.
Or maybe just a nice sized private pond/lake.
48x24 Hammerbeam trussed shop where I will spend the rest of my days duilding Kayaks, Mahagony runabouts and furniture and toys for my grandchildren.
About a dozen big dogs of a variety of breeds for when I might need therapy.
BIG Massive central fireplace
Lots of built-ins and knooks to sit in by windows.
fireplace in bedroom
LOTS of big walk in closets.
Brewery in the basement.
Big built in aquarium with either a Dragon moray or some kind of squid.
Stainless steel sink/counter/drainboard.
Granite Island
Butcherblock work area.
Full size freezer and fridge.
No vinyl, carpet, formica, textured ceilings, Hollow doors, stock moldings, particle board.
for starters.......Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
OK Mr. T
whatcha gonna use for wood species in that timberframe? pine or fir? or go with a real wood like oak or cherry?
what no walk in cooler / freezers?
and I hope you aren't planning on boring concrete flooring for that shop.. maybe granite for where you will be storing stuff but oak or something for thw work area? Hate for you to get fatiqued feet standing around hold the 12 oz. brew.