I’m looking for an inexpensive handrail for an exterior wheelchair ramp. All the inspector said is that it must be continuous, and at least 1-1/2″ in diameter. Any suggestions?
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Replies
1-1/4" plastic pipe. You should make any joints via piece of dowell inside vs using regular couplings.
Or you can buy regular wood handrail for about $2 a foot.
The harder part is figuring out the mounting, in many cases.
I've used PVC pipe with wood dowel inside for strength. What about steel pipe and pipe flanges for attachment? (I used plastic because it wouldn't need painting, but ended up painting it anyway because I got the purple glue (primer?) on it. Also, not sure how it holds up to UV--may get brittle?)
If you take some tubing and put a wooden dowel inside and use Gorilla Glue and let it expand it will be very strong. I did that with some thin walled electrical conduit and closet pole for a similar application and it was amazingly stiff and strong.
I like to use the white SS shower / bath grab bars - just add 'em together to get the length you want - they hold up fine outside.
Forrest
The OP said inexpensive. How much do you pay for your shower grab bars? Last one I got was about 36" and $40+, and that was in a box store. I wouldn't want to be putting too many of them together - besides, that's not continous.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Whoops! I missed that.
How about top rail from chain link fencing? I think PVC would be too floppy, and it would be tough to make the mounts meet the reequired pull-away strength.
Forrest
Top rail from chain link fencing sounds like it might be what I'm looking for. Is there some type of union/mounting bracket available to make it continuous? I have approximately 100' to install, and the supporting posts are only allowed to be 5' apart, max. So I would need 5' or 10' lengths, with a mounting bracket on each post, and a union at each joint.
"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Edited 5/1/2006 10:08 am by Huck
Maybe you could use the normal cast fitting that the horizontal rail passes through as it passes over the vertical post, and just mount those fittings to the wall. I think you'd have to drill and tap the fitting for setscrews to keep the rail from moving. There are sleeves that slide over the horizontal rails that make them continuous.
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Forrest