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Insert-sytle replacement window options

asinning | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 10, 2007 02:34am

We’re down to 3 candidates for replacement windows in our 1890’s house. All three are of the “insert” variety, meaning that we will keep the existing frames. In all instances a manufacturer certified installer will be doing the install. All are double-hungs. All three options will allow me to keep our 50+ year old bronze-screened wooden screens.

I’m very interested in any feedback:

Option 1: Renewal by Andersen. Andersen’s reputation in Minnesota is second to none, and Renewal is their Cadillac line, but how much of this is marketing? If I was choosing on durability and expected longevity alone, this would be my choice, but the bottom line is that I don’t like the profile of this window for my 1890’s house. It’s too “rounded”. The water-shedding titanium coating of their “Low E4” glazing has tremendous appeal.

Option 2: Marvin Ultimate Inserts, all wood, no cladding. You lose a bit more glass width compared to options 1 and 3, but the bottom rail of the bottom sash has a taller, more historic profile, and because it is wood I can route out a groove and keep the sash lifts from the original windows. I like everything about this window except for the fact that I will eventually have to paint it and that it might even eventually rot.

Option 3: Marvin Infinity. This is very interesting technology, but I don’t really know much about it. The sashes and frame are built from “pultruded fiberglass” <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pultrusion> The interior surface has a faux grain texture and pattern that feels like wood and will take a gel-stain. The exterior is paintable, but we will just leave it white. I wonder what this material is going to look like in 10, 20, 30 years. How will it hold up to the sun? We’re tearing out 100 year, old-growth windows, and this is major investment.

Thanks!

Andrew Sinning
Minneapolis

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Replies

  1. calvin | Feb 10, 2007 04:35am | #1

    Renewal, when I priced them they were too high for the product, no labor.

    Marvin w/o cladding, I wouldn't.  They've had a history of a problem in the late 80's that they initially took care of, later quit giving breaks.  Clad, no problem.

    The infinity line is highly touted by many including a couple of my suppliers.  Longevity?  I guess we'll see.  Initial reports are good.

    I've used pellas replacement several times.  Dbl hgs -good glass size to sash ratio, easy to install.  Not cheap, but neither are your options.  Something else to look at.

    Would, by some slim chance, new construction windows fit those holes?  With minor modification?

    A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     



    Edited 2/9/2007 9:02 pm ET by calvin

  2. Ragnar17 | Feb 10, 2007 12:41pm | #2

    Judging from the fact that you're going out of your way to keep your bronze screens, I'm curious as to why you don't just use traditional sash?  The mechanical performance is MUCH better than any modern mechanism, and traditional sash has a proven track record in regards to longevity.

     

  3. WINSTALL | Feb 10, 2007 06:15pm | #3

    What condition are the existing frames? Are they square? Have you looked at the Marvin Tilt-pak? That would be my choice. I can tell you from experience, You will NOT be able to re-use the old screens with the wood insert window. The Marvin clad insert will save you the painting / rot potential and still be able to use the old sash lifts!!
    In every case..... you will give up as much as 25 - 30% of your glass
    viewing area. If you can use the Tilt - pak.... you will not loose as much glass and maintain the same look you have now. Also, I am not aware of any factory "certified" installers. They may have been to the factory or some mfg sponsored training seminars!! There is a difference. If they are not on Andersens/ Marvins payroll.... they will not sanction the installation. In either case, these products are not difficult to install if you have some skills and more common sense. It could save you a good deal of $$$$$.

    1. asinning | Feb 10, 2007 08:23pm | #4

      Over the course of it's 115 years, this house has been moved (in 1910), burned (ca 1935), and had a major supporting member hacked by an HVAC installer (ca 1950). Consequently, at least half of the window frames are racked.Both Andersen Renewal and Marvin Infinity are exclusively installed by "manufacturer certified installers". The Andersen installers are in fact on their payrole. AFAIK, you can't buy either of these windows at a lumber yard. I have a lot of other more creative projects on my to do list than installing windows, and it's worth it to me to pay for the expertise of somebody else's mistakes. Does "WINSTALL" stand for "window installer"? Does this signify your expertise or just how you choose to spend your time?25-30% loss of glass? 25% of a 24 inch wide window would be 3" from each side. With both the Renewals and the Infinities you loose about 5/8" on each side.I've revisited the dimensions on the Marvin Ultimate inserts. You are right that I won't be able to keep my screens, but with both the Renewals and the Infinities it will work.

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