When working with ceramic tile: At the inside corners of walls, how do you determine when to grout the corner joint and when to fill the joint with caulk?
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For me its a matter of the individual application.
First off, is the framing new? New framing (as in a wall built as part of the current project) is going to react to changes in humidity more greatly than older existing framing. (except in the case of metal framing, obviously) Theres a good chance that the grout in a corner joint will break loose and fall out as lumber dries. If this is your own home, you may choose to grout with the understanding that you`ll have to attention the area again in the not too distant future. On a project for another, you might prefer to caulk in order to avoid a call back.
Secondly, is the area being tiled going to be subject to moisture? (as in a tub or shower area) If not, I`m likely to leave the grout joint at the inside corner a bit wider to accomodate grout...too tight a joint won`t allow grout enough area to bond properly. If the tiled area is inside a tub/shower surround I prefer to keep the joint tighter. In this instance I use a silicone caulk that closely matches the color of the grout.
Tile styles and field joints come into play as well when determining exactly how large a joint I leave in the corner....but the amount of moisture in the area being tiled is what concerns me foremost.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Thanks for getting back to me. This application is a new shower I'm building in my home. Thanks for the information.
Anytime, Best of luck to ya.....feel free to post some pics when your done!J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Keep in mind that you will typically use a NON sanded grout on your wall tiles. The grout line should be as narrow as possible to prevent the shrinkage cracks.
In a corner, one wall plane will lap over the previously applied tile and if your layout is symetrical you have cut the end tiles to fit, usually applying the back wall first to hide that cut and to visually minimize the cut edge of the adjoining tile.
With this overlap, you would be applying the grout to a cut, porous edge as well as a slick tile face. The grout will have less adhesion to the slick face and can almost be guaranteed to separate. If you left a large space in the corner for the grout it has more incentive to shrink and sparate.
In full mud applications the shear mass of the mud wall plus the embedded mesh kept the corners from separating. No caulk would be found in those shower corners.
For all vertical corners I would definitely use a matching caulk to forstall future problems. Get the best you can for long life.
Be sure to install the floor first, with the wall tiles lapping the floor. If you don't, I expect you will see grout separation along the wall (slick tile) edge and it will leak to the last line of defense - the pan. With the wall tiles lapping the floor the shower will be more likely to shed the water, much as when flashing is lapped on exterior applications.
i always cut the tiles for a close fit on an inside corner and use clear silicone or acrylic latex caulking, silicone for shower areas and the latex for kitchen backsplashes
the acrylic doesnt set up shiny like silicone
caulking is not a piece of trim
as a rule for me ...
it's most always grout caulking.
the sanded or nonsanded macthing the grout that was used.
Corners move ... all of them ....
any not flat surface ... and junctions where different materials meet ....
get the grout caulking.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
what jeff said, if you go that route you will not be disappointed.
james.
What Jeff said and some of the others . The different materials come together and where moiture and or movement or expansion and contraction occur.
Darkworksite4:
Gancho agarrador izquierdo americano pasado que la bandera antes de usted sale