Inside corner paper sheetrock corners?
geoffhazel
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’ve used the outside corner “mud-on” paper sheetrock corners when dealing with nonexistant or very bouncy backing; In fact, I needed a couple this weekend. When I went to get them, I noticed they have INSIDE metal corners too, and I had a hard time thinking of a use for them. About the only thing I could come up with was a situation where the rock has a large gap in the corner that you’retrying to bridge. Am I right? When else might you use an inside mud-on corner metal?
Edited 1/26/2004 4:47:16 PM ET by GeoffH
Replies
for anal-retentive homeowners
As an absolute amatuer, I found the metal/paper combo much easier to use on the inside corners. My touch is not that of a skilled taper. The metal corner prevented me from cutting into the opposing side with my knife.
For the DIYer, I think there is some benefit.
This is a question / What IF. What would happen, if you score the back side of the sheet of DW. Then bend/break it, but not the front side. With the board bent at 90 degrees, mud the back and place it in the corner. I guess when you mud and tape at the joint, it wont match the perfect corner. (I just answered my own question).
Well, if you're going to put the bent piece of drywall in the corner, you can forget the mud of the backside... nobody's going to see it inside the wall.
You could always railroad the sheet, then there's no center seam, just the top edge. Of course, you DO have the indents in the edges, so perhaps you COULD get a "perfect corner" this way... I can't imagine getting the sheetrockers to do it this way, can you?
And (not to take this too far) you may run into some backing issues. Sometimes the framing assumes one side of the rock is going in first. You're giving up 1/2" of backing to do it that way.
vaulted ceilings that are prone to crack.
I thought that crack was something the dw complains to me about.
ADAM
now where are my suspenders?
> Where the corner has a gap. Sometimes with remo or patch work, theree was no nailer left originally and you needn't tear it all apart to put one in or replace the gappingf piece some amature left.
> Where a cape has a knee-wall break into a sloping ceing and break again into the flat ceiling. This joint is the bane of finishers but it gets downright easy with the re-inforced corner tape.
> When you are in a hurry on a small job. The nocoat corners take fewer coats to finish up.
Excellence is its own reward!
> When you are in a hurry on a small job. The nocoat corners take fewer coats to finish up.
I was wondering about that. Since the corner is already "finished" inside, wouldn't you just need a bedding coat on the edges and then a fill coat after that?
Yeah. It's the way it's supposed to be done. Most of my stuff gets a skim coat too, but I've done small jobs withthis stuff with the bed coat and taper/finish coat all in one, using easysand90 setting type..
Excellence is its own reward!