Replies

1. 
   DanH | Sep 30, 2010 06:15pm | #1

   First thing I'd do is look at the instructions that come with the window.

1. 
   housenut1 | Oct 01, 2010 10:24pm | #2

   Hello Dan:

   I bought the window used from someone.  Maybe I will try to look online or visit a window shop to see how they install it. 

   Thanks

   Wayne

1. 
   calvin | Oct 02, 2010 07:56am | #3

   If you think the weight of the glass..........

   isn't too much for that type of mounting, where it's going to want to pull out at the top-might work.

   I would think seriously about securely joining a jamb extension (real securely!) so you could fasten to the framing.

   or

   Strap it up at the top back  to the framing with metal so all that force is taken away from the brick.  Assume it's bottom is resting on something so that all the weight isn't to the brick at the sides.

   Andersen's bay windows had cables which ran up from the bottom of the platform, through the corner posts and then tied up into the soffit framing.  Might be another possibility for you.  Can't remember if that system also allowed you to take it up and back to the wall framing-then frame a roof over the bay.

1. 
   housenut1 | Oct 04, 2010 09:46pm | #4

   garden window

   Hello Calvin:

   Thank you for the very important tip regarding the weight.  I will figure something out to take the load.  I may contact you again with a question about how to rough in the brick.  less.

   Wayne

   P.S. Thanks for the other tips too.

1. 
   calvin | Oct 04, 2010 10:51pm | #5

   It's not so much the weight of the unit as it is the force......

   applied with that weight.  for example-stand in your doorway, 100 and some pounds straight down, not a problem . 

   Now, stand there on one foot and hang your body out that door, hanging on by one hand.  Not quite as easy and where's alot of the weight (force)?  up there on your arm.  Imagine the force the window exerts up top at that fastening point?

   Do take a look at Andersen's bay window section and find an install pdf.  See if their cable (if they still use it) fastening system makes sense.

2. 
   housenut1 | Oct 06, 2010 12:45am | #7

   Thanks again for the concern and the example.  I will be checking out the cable system or I may build a support underneath to carry the force.

   Wayne

2. 
   john_carroll | Oct 05, 2010 09:10am | #6

   Your sequence does not sound right. I've always installed the window (or door) first, then laid the bricks to the casing around the opening. This casing is usually brickmolding. As a general rule, brick veneer should not carry any load other than its own weight. By attaching the window to the veneer, you are violating this rule.

   I've only installed one of these windows in a brick-clad house. I installed it to the framed opening. After trimming it out with brick molding, I laid the brick to the molding. The lintel, went over the the window in the usual manner.

   From inside the house, you can see the thickness of the brick veneer along the sides of the window. This has never hurt anyone's feelings. (I built the house in 1980 for my parents, so we've had plenty of time to look at it.) If you want to set the window further out in the veneer, do what one other poster suggested and build a stout jamb out from the wall. The brick must be laid against the casing so make sure you don't prevent this by framing the opening out. Flash the lintel carefully.  

1. 
   housenut1 | Oct 06, 2010 12:51am | #8

   garden window tip

   Hello Mudslinger:

   I'll be checking out the job tomorrow and I appreciate the suggestion.  I may contact you because I was unclear on one point.

   Thanks,

   Wayne