Install new window in existing stud wall
I understand the theory of this procedure and the need for a header beam and jack studs (I think they are called) to support it, etc. I am stuck with “the how do I do it?”
The basic cut thru the wall would be slightly larger than the window to allow clearance and shimming the window level: no problem. I want to avoid, if possible, making this cut larger than needed; ie, what can be covered with the finish trim.
The existing studs are 24in on-centre. To locate the window properly I must cut an existing stud and install the header/jack studs/etc. This leaves, on both the left and right sides a cavity of about 14in in-depth in which I would need to work. There would also be a similar one at the top: from the rough window opening to the top of the new header beam.
How do I “get all this stuff into the wall” without making the hole larger and then re-drywalling? A neighbor had a window installed and he claims that the crew did not have to do any drywall work. I can do drywall if necessary, but is there a way for me to “keep it simple?”
Thanks, big time, in advance
Edit: Thanks for all the thoughts. Seems like the “easy out” may just be to remove some extra drywall so I can see what I am doing. Probably
quicker than trying to work in a cave.
Thanks again.
Edited 11/13/2006 10:02 pm ET by Dunc1
Replies
>>A neighbor had a window installed and he claims that the crew did not have to do any drywall work
Hire his contractor?
Seriously, most of the responders you get to your inquiry will need more information. Window size and rough opening are the first to come to mind.
Dave
There was an article in FHB about a year ago or so. I think by R Arnold.
Pictures and everything!
but if you can't find that '
cut the rock to RO size and location. ckeck for wiring.
<<<Find romex and say oh sh1t
Call sparky and SR guy>>>
Below that SR cutout, you can shorten the cripple studs 1-1/2" with a plunge cut from sawsall. The apron trim will cover this . place the sill plate
Above it ( be sure it is a load bearing wall needing a header) make same cuts for header location. Do this carefully and very little SR repair is needed. If vinyl siding, you can have removed it and make the cuts from outside..
Hoist header into place and tack through SR to hold temporarily. Maybe even a little PL premium for where the header contats the cripple studs above. if laid out right, many places would not need ripples above header. You can have cut out a small hole in center of window ro locatiion first to check this and maybe move it an inch or whatever.
Measure and ram in your jack studs as needed. nail from in and out.
Install and trim window per normal
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where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Dry wall is cheap.
Because someone else did it doesn't mean it was done correctly.
I have done this numerous times and never once did I not remove the sheetrock exposing everything important that I needed to see.
What Piffin said. To minimize the work (especially if the wall is plaster) mark the RO on the wall. Cut open and check for surprises. If it looks good to go, I mark the sill and header locations on the wall, then use a circ saw and plunge into the studs to get a good, square cut started, then finish cutting the stud with a sawzall.
The rest is pretty straightforward.
Usually, however, I find it a lot less of a pain to open up the wall, sole plate to top from the inside. Drywalling is fairly easy to do, and the job will be done right. Seen some pretty funky framing from DIYers' trying to minimize drywall work. Its like using a shovel to fill the dozer bucket.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I've opened a larger hole too, but try hard to keep from going all the way to the cieling because then I have to tape that corner and repaint the cieling too
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I usually stop at the top plate. The inch/half is about all I need for the DW repair. DW repairs on walls adjacent to a textured ceiling are a pain.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
Don't mean to add complexity but do not forget king studs. They're the full length studs outside the jacks that prevent the wall from "hinging" at the opening under lateral loads and prevent the header from twisting under vertical loads. If it's an exterior wall subject to wind load (and if you're adding a window I assume it is) or a bearing wall in any case, I wouldn't forget the king studs in addition to the jacks.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
I'm wondering how you guys are going to flash this window once you finish cutting your exact-size hole thru the wall...? I've done new window openings from the exterior, and only cut the hole thru the sheetrock at the last second. But, working from the exterior with some of the siding off, or at least loosened, you can actually flash the dang thing.