Replies

1. 
   calvin | Dec 04, 2010 08:52am | #1

   Mike

   You can start your tile anywhere, as long as your reference lines equate to a beautiful finished product when you are done.

   How are you detailing the waterproofing behind that tile if you leave the tub out till right b/4 the last tile?  Is this a free-standing clawfoot style?

   If built in, I would certainly set the tub first-there is a flange on it, no?

2. 
   DanH | Dec 04, 2010 09:34am | #2

   Yes, unless there's some REALLY good reason to do otherwise, you should set the tub first.  You, of course, do need to be sure to well-protect the tub from damage during the tile work (several layers of cardboard and tarps, eg).  (I'm amazed that some "professionals" don't seem to understand this.)

   If you don't want to set the tub right away you should still set it into place temporarily and make sure you know exactly where/how high it will sit, and determine if you need to shim out for the flange (or notch the studs for it) or not.  Make sure you can make your plumbing connections.  Then, as said, you can start your tile anywhere, so long as you maintain the correct pitch (though working mostly bottom-up is easiest).  (If you don't start near the bottom draw reference lines on the backer so you can check yourself as you work.)

   Here's a pretty good set of instructions (though I'm sure there will be some critics):  http://www.thetiledoctor.com/howto/bathtubs2.cfm

1. 
   MBaybut | Dec 04, 2010 05:46pm | #5

   Thanks. The link is awesome.

   Mike

1. 
   DanH | Dec 04, 2010 05:48pm | #6

   Yeah, it was kinda dumb luck that I found it while double-checking some of what I was saying.  (I try not to seem like a TOTAL idiot.)

3. 
   Shacko | Dec 04, 2010 04:12pm | #3

   Tiling Around Tub

   If you have a tub that gets tile on three sides you would be best off tiling after the tub is set, you normally leave 1/4in. only extra space which would kill you trying to put  a cast iron tub in place and it wouldn't be fun with an acrylic type.

1. 
   MBaybut | Dec 04, 2010 05:42pm | #4

   Thanks all

   Thank you.

   Mike

4. 
   [email protected] | Dec 06, 2010 05:20pm | #7

   Yes you can, but it takes planning.

   You could tile most of the surround first.  If I were to do it, I'd leave about a foot at the bottom of the tile off, and set from a ledger board placed at the bottom of the top install. 

   I'd plan on a trim band at the bottom of the top field, and set the top field on a diagonal so that it will be less obvious that the grout lines aren't quite equal, just in case I had to cheat the grout width to get the bottom field to fill in evenly. 

5. 
   glacierfergus | Dec 08, 2010 04:34pm | #8

   tile the ceiling before tub, walls afterward...

   If you are planning to tile the ceiling, I would get that finished before installing the tub.  It is much easier to do all the ladder work without a tub in the way. If you are just tiling the walls, I would do it after the tub install.  I would still do whatever ceiling finish you are doing before I installed the tub, but that is just my personal preference.

   The tub I just put in had the ceiling tiled, and a decorative band at about 5 feet on the walls.  We put in the hardi backer on the ceiling (remember to put framing support every 12 inches if putting hardie on the ceiling) and then put one course around the walls, leaving the bottom course of backer board for after the tub install. Then I did the wall tiles down to where the decorative band was going to be. This way, all the ladder work was finished. Then we installed the tub, put in the last couple feet of Hardie Backer, and finished tiling...

   It is easier to start tiling from the tub, but when I start tiling in the middle of the wall, I wil screw some scrap plywood with good straight edges to the wall to make a ledge so my tiles don't try to slide down the wall.  If you are starting in the middle, be sure to do lots of measuring to make sure you don't end up with a narrow strip at the bottom or top.