Replies

1. 
   DeaDRingeR | Jul 11, 2005 02:59am | #1

   Hey mendo...

   I've done plenty of bathrooms, some which I framed and other's I use existing framing. Every time I had to shave (Durock) little bit here little bit their. The tub manufacture do this to piss off contractors! LOL... You can add a 1/4 or 1/2 board to the studs but only the back off the tub. Take your time with it because you want to make sure that the tub--->Durock is water tight (roofing tar, silicone etc...). If the tub flange is still sticking out, try to add extra thinset. My helper said "it's only tile....."

   Jack of all trade.................Master of none!

   ---

   Edited 7/10/2005 8:04 pm ET by xxxredsoxxx

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/10/2005 8:05 pm ET by xxxredsoxxx

2. 
   dustinf | Jul 11, 2005 03:07am | #2

   I shim out the back wall studs, and run the hardi backer down to the flat edge of the tub.

1. 
   mendo | Jul 11, 2005 04:11am | #3

   Thanks to all,
   I'll probably shim out but I'll look at it in the morning and decide.

3. 
   Piffin | Jul 11, 2005 04:50am | #4

   You do not want a screw in the flange. You want a 1x4 under the flange to support it. Nail or screw the 1x4 to the studs.

   set the tub and be sure that you have the drain connections right.

   Set the tub in a bag of premixed mortar for base support.

   ruin tarpaper around the studing above the tub so it lips over the flange.

   Now you are ready to shim on the studs, about 3/16" to 1/4"

   When setting the backerbopard, do not seat it tight down on the tub. the steel will move differently than the cement board with temp changes, and you do not want the cement board wicking water up behind the tiles. The final trim joint there is made with caulk as part of the tile job.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   piko | Jul 11, 2005 06:07am | #5

   Follow Piffin's advice, especially re tarpaper (felt, tho, I'd recommend). Some people here cheat and stop the Hardibacker above the flange - tile will bridge the gap (although it can be a b*gger getting the grout to stay in). This will stop water wicking up the cementitious board. Use a kit/bath caulk at the tub to tile connection.

   ciao for niao

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

5. 
   davidmeiland | Jul 11, 2005 06:14am | #6

   Another vote for the shimming. Sometimes you can simply notch each stud where the flange is. The bottom line is that you need the face of the studs flush with the face of the flange. Any other way and it gets hard to do a good job with the waterproofing or the backer board. If you can't notch, pick up some 1/4" plywood and rip it into 1-1/2" strips for shimming. You can use 6 mil poly behind the backer board instead of felt and it's a little easier, IMO.

1. 
   mendo | Jul 11, 2005 06:48pm | #7

   Thanks again to all,
   I'm following advise and shimming out
   Good luck to us all