Installing 1×12 rough sawed Yellow Pine for siding over existing T1 11 painted siding.
I intend on using 1×12 yellow pine rough sawed lumber and dried in barn for 3 years. For siding over some existing T111 painted siding. First I intend to wrap entire home with a moisture barrier. Then put up verticle batton strips 16 inches apart. Next i intend to router top and bottom edges with a round over bit., to kinda fake a log type siding. Next stain ad seal before nailing with galvanized ring shank nails. Instead of traditional lap siding techniques Im going to leave about a 1 inch gap between each horozontal run. Finally plan to grout with cement. MY CONCERNS ARE warping and bowing. Being that the boards are so wide. Also if cement is the better choice ? Premixed chinking is rather expensive.I have done A lot of framing and trim work over the years, so i know I need to cup the siding correctly,not to fit it to tight etc. I have thought about using a metal lathe strip behind each horozontal joint, to hold the grout. I also figure to use 4 number 8 ring shank nails at each stud,via nail gun, starting from middle and working to both ends. I also have a bunch of yellow pine 1 by 4s I was gonna put up raw for batton strips.Any input,tips,comments etc. are greatly appreciated. Jerry Harmon Eastover S.C.
Replies
You expect this to last how many months?
Re think the whole thing. Mixing stucco and wood in this way is a really bad idea in ways too numerous to mention. Lath or no lath your 1" strips of stucco (that's what they ammount to) will falling apart or separating from the wood within a year.
Thanks Mike
Appreciate your input........Duly noted.....point well taken.....
You need some sort of base behind the "chinks" for the stucco to adhere to. Perhaps expanded metal mesh, similar to what's used behind conventional stucco.
Thank you DanH for your reply
Yea dont know if ya noticed or not but i did mention using a metal lath in original post...just spelled it wrong. Thanks just the same..........
I was with you all the way till you got to the part about chinking. That took be aback. But, my objection is really one of aesthetic and not of utility. Meaning: I wouldn't care for the look of it, but I don't see anything wrong. You are essentially building a rainscreen wall and that is a good thing. Leave air gaps at top and bottom and don't let the chinking block the air flow. As Dan said, use metal lath at the gaps to hold the chinking. Althogh installing the metal will be awfully tedious and time consuming.
If you can afford to wait another year it may prove adventageous to do a test patch on the most exposed area of your house. See how it fares over some time.
How will you keep the cement chinking stuff from staining the edges of the board siding? Being rough, it will absorb the wet goo like a stain.
Thanks sapwood
Im brain storming now!!!!!!!!!!
Jerry,
I agree with Mike that this is a bad idea. SYP moves quite a bit with changes in moisture content and will either leave gaps in your chinking or blow it out. Yellow pine is not very rot resistant without a great paint job.
KK
Point well Taken
Thanks KK for your reply! Im just gonna have do something else......
Thanks for your replies! Cement was a concern of mine
That was a major concern of mine using cement ,even with the lath behind it ! Thought maybe since i was going to seal and stain first it might be o.k. I am basically A retired frame carpenter of whom is out of touch with all the modern day products offered today in home renovations. I have measured cut and hammerd enough frame lumber and siding in my day . I recently bought A small home with this decent conditon T1 11 siding on it, and I have A barn full of 1x12s Wanted to do something out of the ordinary lap siding. look .Basically tired ofT1 11 siding loo. With A limited income thought cement on lath between 1" horozontal joints would be good, From what im gathering I guess not. My other thought was the pre mixed chinking. I have plenty of time to Achieve the look I want as labor intensive as it may be (Lord Willing)!!!! If you see any unnecessary steps or mistakes i could be making, or fresh Ideas, Please let me know. Are the furring strips necessay I mentioned earlier? And if so should I go out and buy treated 1x4s or stain my rough sawn, or just leave them raw? I live in the country by myself and will be doing all the work by myself. So any input on this matter is greatly appreciated, yall could save this old man A lot of time and unnecessary work. Any new ideas ? Im all ears..... Thanks A Bunch !!!!
There is acrylic chinking that may work, but I would not consider any type of masonry chinking, just give up that thought for the love of God.
10/4 Already scrapped the cement idea.....
Appreciate your reply their Mark H. Im gonna do some checking in to what is on the market, that will not bleed into the stained wood.....Thanks will check into this acrylic stuff.was also considering instead of batton, or furring strips just to cover the T 111 with builders dupont foam sheets. Same ones they use in new construction ....What you guys feel bout that ?
Just remember that there will be some moisture behind the new siding, You need some way for that to escape. There are numerous ways to accomplish that. Here's a link for Perma Chink. As you can see, it's expensive, but you could fill some of the void with something to minimise the amount of chinking needed.
http://www.worldofstains.com/Perma-Chink-Log-Home-Chinking-5-GL-Pail-p/pc-perma-chink-chinking-5gl.htm
You might consider backing the joints with strips of stucco-textured sheet siding, then maybe dab on some synthetic stucco in spots to give it "character". Wouldn't seal very well, but you have a good drainage plane behind.