I am about to embark on installing the kitchen cabinets in my small 1957 galley style kitchen. First up is a 24″x24″ 8′ cabinet that will be in a corner with standard base and wall cabinets attached to one side. The lower shelves are pull-outs.
My question regards the 4″ high base that was shipped separately and is the same width as the cabinet while the length is that of the standard cabinet bases at the toe kick area. The base has a piece of 1/4″ ply covering it except for an open area of about 3″ at the (I assume) toe kick end. There appears to be no convenient way to attach the base to the 8′ cabinet, nor any good way to attach the base to the wall, except for the possibility of putting a fastener in the narrow open area. Does one just sit the base in the appropriate area and then perch the 8′ cabinet on top? Or is there some secret way in which the two pieces are to be attached? Or some other trick?
Thanks, Casey
Edited 8/20/2007 5:47 pm ET by CaseyR
Replies
Casey,
I do not have any good advice on the install meathod other that to say I hope you have tall ceilings. A 24" x 96" cabinet has a diagonal measure of about 99". Unless your ceilings are 99" tall you will not be able to stand it upright.
Hopefully you have this covered. I was just thinking that a 1957 small kitchen probably had 8' ceilings.
Good Luck,
Doug M.
The ceiling height at the outer wall is almost 9', plus it is a 1:12 cathedral ceiling, so tipping it into place should not be problem - or at least the height of the ceiling shouldn't be a problem.
casey, I may have interpreted this question wrong.
Your cabs came with "toekick base'' shipped loose? The tall cab and base cabs go on top of that?
You want to level and secure the base?
Figure where the base needs to go, scribe on the floor the outline. Put down blocks (size of your choice) so they are to the inside of the base frame. Level the frame. Screw low to the floor through that base and into the blocks. Bust off the shims and shoe mold it.
Set the cabs on top and perhaps screw down into that base frame, secure to wall.
Yes?
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
That sounds far better than just balancing the cabinet on top of the base. The whole thing could have been engineered far better with little effort, but then, these were only supposed to be the bottom of the "best" line of cabinets, not the top.
The loose shipped toe kick is usual when purchasing a tall panty cab-so you can tip into place in an 8'ceiling, plop on top of the kick and then jack up/fasten.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
In your experience, how is the pantry cab fastened to the toe-kick base? Or is it?
A loose kicks I've dealt with have 2 substantial strips on the top front and back (3/4). So there's no problem running screws down throught the bottom of the cab into it. You might want to use a trim hd. screw or cap a flathead with something like the peel and stick small round disks from Fastcap. With pull out trays it'll be covered up. In other base cabs, do a neat job and it won't be seen after they stock them.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/