Replies

1. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Feb 04, 2002 10:55pm | #1

   *
   It's not supposed to sit perfectly flat on the edge of the cabinet gable; it is supposed to be proud by the thickness of a plastic bumper....so when you put a bumper on the other side of the door, the door lies in a flat plane. This is kinda hard to explain when you get down to it. Say the cabinet has a pair of doors, meeting in the middle....if the hinges are set right, and there are no bumpers on the doors, where they meet, they will each be angled back towards the cabinet, instead of being nice and straight across the front.

   One thing you can do, if the factory settings aren't right for you, is to loosen off the main connecting screw in the arm part, that connects to the plate.....then open the door as wide as it will go......lock down the screw at that point. That is usually the optimum position.

1. 
   Stuart_Thompson | Feb 04, 2002 11:58pm | #2

   *Adrian:Ah-ha! That makes sense. I though I was missing something. Thanks a ton!Do plastic bumpers go on both top and bottom of door ?

1. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Feb 05, 2002 03:04am | #3

   *Yup.

1. 
   James_DuHamel | Feb 05, 2002 05:30am | #4

   *Cup hinges = Euro Hinges?Curious minds want to know.James DuHamel

1. 
   Greg_Brown | Feb 05, 2002 03:41pm | #5

   *Yep

2. 
   bill_burns | Feb 06, 2002 02:32am | #6

   *the cup hinge can be used on framed or frameless cabinets, so it is not a true 'euro'hinge in all applications. you won't have full amount of adjustability in all situations.

3. 
   James_DuHamel | Feb 06, 2002 05:07am | #7

   *Maybe it's a regional thing. We do not call them cup hinges here. We call them euro hinges. On the hinges I buy, the package even says euro hinge. Some even say something simple like "adjustable hinge".I was just curious if we were all on the same wavelength. Thanks for the heads up.James DuHamel

4. 
   GACC_DAllas | Feb 06, 2002 08:24am | #8

   *Around here, we call them concealed hinges.Stuart,Sounds like you bought the wrong hinge for your application. You have to be VERY careful about that. Not too many of the concealed hinge designs can be used in applications other than their intended design.On a half or full overlay, the hinge side should sit about a strong 1/16th off the face frame. But not 1/4".Check with your supplier.Ed.

5. 
   gary_weiss | Feb 07, 2002 05:51am | #9

   *Adrian,That's why your a cabinet maker, and I'm sitting here always reading your knowlegable responses.Gary

6. 
   Ooze | Feb 07, 2002 11:22pm | #10

   *If the door still binds on the hinge side face, use the in/out screw to pull the door out, it should then clear.If this still doesn't give enough clearance you may have to reset the mounting plate. This condition is commonly referred to as "hingebound", and you can tell because the door can't open, or rubs, or won't close completely. If you can't get the tolerances between doors correct after maxing out the side to side adjustment , you probably have the wrong mounting plates.

7. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Feb 09, 2002 05:56am | #11

   *geez, Gary, that's a really nice thing to say....thanks.the 1/4" proud part, I missed....the combination of hinge and plate, installed acording to instructions, is really important, and the setback for the plate of 37mm is critical, that's all I can say.the 'hingebound'situation described later....that's what I was trying to address by saying, loosen off the in-out screws, or whatever you want to call them, open the door as wide as you can, and tighten up the screws again....that usually puts things exactly where they need to be.