Replies

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Jan 19, 2001 08:01pm | #1

   *
   Adrian, several ways to do them.

   Square logs not a problem. Round logs a little tougher.

   The one I use for upper cabinets is to cut keys vertically into the log and insert a nailer for your cabinetry. Then you scribe a filler piece for the perimeter

   For full height cabinets or base cabinets, on full round log applications, use a filler piece behind your cabinets and scribe to the wall. For these I only use a nailing block to secure the cabinet. For the top of the cabinets, I install a raised shelf to cover the gap.

   Gabe

   BTW remember the log homes in the Gatineau hills, half were build by my partner and I.

1. 
   Don_Hamel | Jan 19, 2001 08:12pm | #2

   *Gabe: I've read numerous places that there is usually quite a bit of shrinkage in the logs during the first season. Never having dealt with log construction, I was wondering if you found that to be a problem when installing cabinets, etc.?

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Jan 19, 2001 10:07pm | #3

   *Don, yes there is a hell of a lot of shrinkage. So much so that you have to leave at least 2 to 3 inches of space between the tops of windows/doors and the header log. In the basement screw jacks are a must.Your base cabinets sit on the floor and only the filler stripes contact both. The upper cabinets are hung on vertical blocking or the ceiling via treaded rods.In many homes a false wall is built against the logs specifically to accomodate the kitchen cabinetry.Gabe

1. 
   David_Mason | Jan 21, 2001 11:22pm | #4

   *Adrian, Ive done quite a few here in Alaska. The "D" style logs are the easy ones.The uppers Ijust attached to one log, they will all settle the same. The standing units can also be attached to one log at the top of your unit,but you will need to cut a three inch slot wherever you need a screw to allow for settling. Its all about allowing for settling and common sense. I would bid in some thinking time, since every job is different, especially log homes.

1. 
   Mark_"if_I_were_a_carpenter | Jan 21, 2001 11:35pm | #5

   *This may or may not be helpful. I came up with a clever little trick using one of those contour gauge scribes to scribe whatever you are using to trim your cabinets to the log wall. take your piece of trim stock and temporarily attach it in place roughly the same distance from the deepest point of the log joint as the width of your gauge. My gauge is 3" wide, therefore I would measure 3" from the deepest point of the wall and tack the trim in place. then just start at either the top or the bottom and push your gauge into the wall then trace the other side of it onto the trim. keep working your way down,(or up) with the gauge until you have scribed the entire piece of trim. Then just remove the trim, cut along the line, and re-install it. This took a little bit of practice, but I was able to get pretty good at it by the time I had finished one kitchen.One caution though, I have only done this on a remodel of a log home that was several years old. I can see where you may run into all sorts of trouble with settling in new construction where your perfect scribe would no longer match at all. Good Luck!!

2. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Jan 22, 2001 04:47am | #6

   *I'm considering all your replies, gents...thanks. Gabe, I've been in log home or two in the Gatineaus...I'm from Wakefield.

3. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Jan 22, 2001 07:35pm | #7

   *Adrian....I have always drywalled the kitchen log wall where the cabinets hung.near the stream,aj

4. 
   Kenyon_Bange | Feb 15, 2001 03:51pm | #8

   *I have seen the logs behind cabinets flattened and the cabinets are set back two or three inches. Hometime.com has some good pics in their log house links. One observation was lots of slots for connections to allow for settling. W/ cabinets sunk back, trimming looked much easier but would imagine that installation becomes lengthier. Tradeoffs suck!

5. 
   Brent_Hornick | Feb 16, 2001 04:34am | #9

   *Just an idea but why not fasten 3/4 plywood to flaten the wall and allow for movement by slotting it and screwing it on where the cabinets will cover. Attach the cabinets to the plywood only and allow a trim extension on the exposed ends to hide the plywood wall. This would allow for a nice flat level surface and the uppers would remain a consistant height above the bases-even in the corners where two different logs may settle differently. also the folks could add a tile backspash etc

2. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Feb 16, 2001 04:34am | #10

   *
   Never done it, but I've got a kitchen to estimate on my desk now; had another one last year, and no doubt more in the future. I'm not sure what headaches to expect, or ways to work around them. This current one isn't full-round logs, they're flat on the interior (new house)....L-shaped kitchen with one leg on the log wall, one leg on a drywalled interior partion. There are a couple of full length tall cabinets, so the uppers and lowers aren't independent of each other. Any tips on log houses, full round or not, appreciated.