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We are in the process of restoring our 1891 victorian home in Baraboo Wisconsin. The climate here can be harsh (-25 to 100 degrees F) and we are considering installing our new cedar bevel siding using the air cavity method recommended by the WRCLA ( http://www.wrcla.org/ )for harsh climates. The house was very well built, unfortunately someone decided to cover up the lack of maintenance on this gem in 1973 by installing aluminum siding over the rotting cedar. We are now starting over and want to do thing correctly as well as restore the gem to its former beauty. The questions we have are the following:
1. What material is suitable for the furring strips … cedar or CDX plywood ripped in strips? Should we back prime the furring strips for extra protection?
2. When end cuts and corners are butted together, we were planning to end prime the cuts. WRCLA recommends using caulk. Do we do both or is caulk sufficient? If we decide to caulk and end prime, do we need to wait for the primer to dry before caulking and joining?
Any help would be appriciated.
Regards … Andy, Jacquie, Maria and “junior on the way”
Replies
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Andrew, strapping (1x3) would be O.K. for the furring, back-priming is not needed,BUT backpriming the claps is an excellent idea and strongly recomended. BTW, strapping is a "rough" lumber NOT a finish lumber such as #2 pine. Priming end cuts is a GREAT idea, you can some white pigmented shellac primer such as Bullseye or B-I-N, these will dry fairly quickly ,30 minutes or so, if you can cut several pieces at once you can then prime all of them then measure for the next group of pieces while the first dry. Caulking will then be no problem. You don't say whether you are using corner boards but I assume you are. The method I prefer is to apply 15 or 30 # felt paper behind the corners. Cut strips that will extend 6-8" beyond the edge of the corner boards on each side ,apply stips being sure to lap so they shed water(like roof shingles). Attach corner boards , then when you install siding cut so claps fit "snug" not so tight then push the corner boards but just "snug" against the board, no caulking is needed, any water that does get through will run down the felt paper and out the bottom. Have you thought of using Cedar Breather instead of strapping, it's a mesh that spaces the claps off the sheathing to allow drainage, check out Benjamin Obdyke for more info.
Geoff
*Thanks for the info on quick drying primer and furring. We will likely go with the furring method due to cost.FYI, we are trying to restore the house to its original look which includes routed edge bevel siding and mitered corners. We plan to install 30# felt at each corner board as well as each joint. The mitered corners are more labor intensive, but it sure gives the house a neat look with all the angled areas and character the house has.
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We are in the process of restoring our 1891 victorian home in Baraboo Wisconsin. The climate here can be harsh (-25 to 100 degrees F) and we are considering installing our new cedar bevel siding using the air cavity method recommended by the WRCLA ( http://www.wrcla.org/ )for harsh climates. The house was very well built, unfortunately someone decided to cover up the lack of maintenance on this gem in 1973 by installing aluminum siding over the rotting cedar. We are now starting over and want to do thing correctly as well as restore the gem to its former beauty. The questions we have are the following:
1. What material is suitable for the furring strips ... cedar or CDX plywood ripped in strips? Should we back prime the furring strips for extra protection?
2. When end cuts and corners are butted together, we were planning to end prime the cuts. WRCLA recommends using caulk. Do we do both or is caulk sufficient? If we decide to caulk and end prime, do we need to wait for the primer to dry before caulking and joining?
Any help would be appriciated.
Regards ... Andy, Jacquie, Maria and "junior on the way"