My client wants me to hang a door that he has made out of 2×4’s on edge, with 5/8″ cedar on both sides – this makes the door about 4 1/2″ thick!
I used to cut in butts years ago, but have forgotten most of the technique. He has picked up 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 butts and I would use at least three sets on the door. Is there a rule on how far into the door you set the butts? I think we always set them in up to the curved or swagged section.
I am concerned that I will even be able to lift the door, and that the hinges will eventually pull loose from the weight. The door isn’t that big tho, 2/o x 6/8.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Bob
Replies
on a door like that there wouldnt really be a standard the hinges just need to be set to match the jamb so when the door is closed it is close to the stop without touching as you close the door.to help keep the door from sagging use long screws go through the jamb and into the framing.was he able to find a lockset that would fit that thick of a door?
This door is on a sauna he/we built and the door has to open out with a simple latch rather than a passage set.
I haven't seen the door yet and dread getting there having to do this job. He also decided to drywall - did the wall first using the sheetrock vertically and wants me to help him with the ceiling. He thinks we can wire the place after the rock is done!
Would you like to take over this job?
Thanks for your reply.
Are you stuck with butt hinges? I would think that srap hinges would be perfect for this application.
If not I would use bigger butts. Something to get the hinge closer to the center of the door.
i agree with hartman strap hinges or t hinges would work better and be easier to hang the door if it is not perfectly square just hold the door up in the opening spaced up of the floor and lag screw the hinges like a heavy gate then maybe add some door stop moulding to the inside of the jamb dont do the trim until the door is in place.
Sheet rock in a sauna?
You gotta be kidding me!
This thread is a classic. Joke right? Yer pullin' our legs...
Maybe gate hinges and a stanchion lock.
Excellence is its own reward!
A classic example of why I want absolutely no help from the HO. They screw up, and you gotta fix it, probably for free. If you have a contract, break out the change orders and start filling them out.
4.5" door? Drywall in a sauna? Get out now while you can. Move to the next county, if possible. I see multiple call-backs in your future.
Good luck.
BTW, do him a favor, recommend he rip down the drywall and install T&G cedar.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Edited 4/19/2003 8:19:15 AM ET by NickNuke'em
Well, my first suggestion is to tell him to hang the monstrousity himself. This door won't open or close without an extreme bevel on the off side. Make sure that his weirdness can't be gauranteed on you.
A door this heavy will need hinges at least 4"x4" - probably four pairs but you might get by with three if they are commmercial bearing type.
Excellence is its own reward!
Bob,
Not to ruin your party, but I have a few more caveat's to add.
1. 2x4's on edge, faced with 5/8" cedar... I'm assuming that he used properly dried 2x4's, at about 10% MC, and fastened them together properly. This is not even taking into account that this door is on a sauna. Humidity swings galore! Expect this door to do some very funny things. If it stays flat, I will be very surprised. Even worse if it's exterior on the other side.
2. I don't think a 3-1/2" hinges would be sufficient. If you decide to take the job, I'm guessing the client you'll be dealing with is the type to overbuild something like crazy. I don't think that 4 4" HD hinges would be overkill, especially with the mentality that I think he will have. If I understand your placement question correctly, you just need to insure that the hinge barrels are unobstructed, and that your screws have enough material to get a sufficient purchase. This might be a problem, with your 5/8" cedar on the face.
3. I second Piffins comments on DW in the sauna.
4. As I mentioned before, the client is probably a little, how can I say this... wacko. If you do the job, bid accordingly.
Jon Blakemore
Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that the drywall was inside the sauna. The sauna is in a basement which we are finishing. The inside of the sauna is 5/8 x 6 cedar! The rest of the basement is to be drywall.
I was going to suggest the strap hinges, but if he wants trim around the outside, this could be a problem.
Will get back to you all later.
Bob
Sauna in a BASEMENT??? Hope he's got some plan to deal with the moisture, like a big exhaust fan outside the door.
Visions of floor joists rotting and the first floor falling down, down, down. If he's in the sauna when it happens, I suppose at least it will be a Darwinian moment.
watch your back moving this thing it sounds pretty heavy. i dont like my customers to help me move anything one wrong move and you are hurtin and they stand there and say oh wow sorry it slipped. if you are moving this door watch him if he starts to do anything stupid or starts to lose his grip or whatever be ready to drop it.i will drop things and i warn people of this before i start i will let go before i hurt my back.i was on a job site once installing crown moulding there was another guy installing appliances at one point i walked outside and the guy was there with a trash compactor asked me if i would help him carry it inside i said nope to heavy where is your hand truck no hand truck sorry cant help you i already have minor back problems later on came out the guy was stuck and couldnt finish his job could i please help i say ok look tip it to me and you grab the bottem dont do anthing stupid i will let go we started to lift i did not bend my back at all. he lifted but the kind of tossed it up to get a better grip and i just let go bamm compactor hit the ground on its face ruined it. i said well now you dont have to install it and walked back inside