Dear Friends,
I am mostly a woodworker, but will be replacing a number of doors and windows into a slump block house (pretty common here in AZ). I’ve installed plenty of doors into wood framing. My question is what is the best method for installing windows and doors into masonry openings, that is, where there is no wood to screw into or simple way to use flanges?
Anderson provides metal clips for masonry applications, but I’m still not sure about how to use these. Would it be better to simply screw through the jamb with masonry type screws? Unfortunately, the simplest screws to use seem to be Tapcons, but they are an unsightly blue for such a visible area.
Am I overlooking other types of fasteners for this application?
I welcome your advice, thanks, Steve
Replies
Here's a page from Andersen's site that details the use of their masonry clip. http://www.andersenwindows.com/UE/bin/ADFSec01.pdf
Some of their products also have stops that are removeable so you can use Tapcons and have them concealed.
Al
Al,
Thanks for the site. I had looked through the Anderson site a bit, but had not opened that particular PDF.
I think my client will be going with Pella doors and windows. I don't recall whether they have a removable strip.
Thanks Steve
Andersen's site has a wealth of info. It can be a bit maddening though, especially if you know something's there and can't find it.
Al
What type of door jamb are we using. Wood or Metal. Exterior doors or interior doors.
Mercer,
The doors would be exterior wood doors, cladded on the outside.
Steve
I have installed quite a few Andersen doors in the past 30 or so years in the Phx. and surronding area and find that, even though it is a pain in the cullo and an extra step, the best way to deal with slump block is to set the door with cedar shims, drill through the shims and mark the block with a masonry bit. Pull the door out of the opening and drill out the block to set some nylon anchors and then reset the door securing it with screws. I know it sounds like a lot of work, and it is, but unless you have the room in the rough opening to attach some 1x6 trim stud it is probably going to be the easiest way to go
Thanks Mustang,
I guess you articulated what I suspected to the best method. I have not had reliable bites with Tapcons. They seem to strip out the masonry too easily.
The openings are going to be too tight to fit a 1x in.
How does the clip system compare for strength, especially for doors?
Steve
I've used the Andersen clips and have decided a long time ago that they are not based in reality. For the time and hassel I felt I could have used a screw and anchor system and been further ahead. The screw and anchor are not as hard as they might sound because the Andersen hinged doors are so easy to install. Just leave the plastic spacers in the jambs and they will hold your revele ( the space between the slab and the jamb) Center the door in the opening and jam some shims into the space between the jamb and the block at the very top and the very bottom. This will hold the prehung unit to plumb, level and square while you drill the holes, by the way, Andersen has pre-drilled the holes in the jamb and header, they are under the caps outside of the door stops. When you set the header screws, run them down tight enough to set the screw head and then back them off. The header should float on the screws and not bind. Lastly, make sure you use plenty of silicone under the sill. Good luck
Mustang,
Thanks for the details. I look forward to installing these.
Steve