Replies

1. 
   calvin | Jan 10, 2008 04:50am | #1

   I've taken a couple out with the old counters.  They were spring clipped-no undermounting.

   A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   splintergroupie | Jan 10, 2008 06:22am | #2

   In the link you gave, if you look at the link to the rim kit only (no glass), it shows a normal sink-mounting system.

   
   

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   Edited 1/9/2008 10:23 pm by splintergroupie

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 10, 2008 07:59am | #3

   Thanks.I see it now. I couldn't find it before.BTW, any one that is interested in these you can get them through woodworkers wholesale much, much cheaper..
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   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

1. 
   splintergroupie | Jan 10, 2008 09:05am | #4

   Thanks. I DID like the idea a lot. It seems like you could just rout a depression and plop in a store-bought glass board with zero clearance, though...no ring.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 10, 2008 06:14pm | #5

   I thought that is what they did. But with the rim.But there are 2 problems. One is that is does not have have a template and you need an exact match. Likewise for the depth.The idea is to save a disaster and you only have one shot at it.I was think taht there was a cutting board that had an extended top area so that it would be self rimming and you only needed to route a rought area. But I did not find one.I could do that with wood, but again since this is a one shot deal on a customers CT I want something that already proven..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

1. 
   splintergroupie | Jan 10, 2008 09:43pm | #6

   I didn't realize it was a customer's counter. I suppose you putty in the rim, also? I was mostly concerned for liquid leaking underneath. Once upon a time i made a very large [wood] cutting board for a chef to plop into his counter, but he was able to pop it out from the underside to clean around the edges. I was very concerned about expansion/contraction, which is why i like your glass board better. Can those be used as trivets for hot pans as well?

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 10, 2008 10:11pm | #7

   That is what they say."Vance Industries has a wide selection of Tempered Glass cutting boards and trivets to fit your needs."They have many, many different patterns.http://www.vanceind.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=39But only a small number comes with the frames.Some place I say reference to glass that was clear or clear with patterns and you can put a piece of laminator or something of your won design under it.I have seen the basic glass boards available at places like Kohls' Target and Wally world.I don't know if you have dealt with WW, but they have a good collection of kitchen and cabinet type of hardware and have prices are good.http://tinyurl.com/3cboujHere is anohter brand, but they don't do inserts.http://www.mcgowanmfg.com/category.cfm?Category=21"Heat resistant - TUFTOP boards are trivets for hot casseroles and counter savers for hot-off-the-stove pots and pans."And they do customs..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

3. 
   splintergroupie | Jan 11, 2008 01:10am | #9

   I had looked on the first site and not seen reference to heat resistance so thanks for linking to the others. I buy most of my hardware from WW (have gotten even better prices on full ext. slides on ebay.) I'm really liking that they can take a pan right right off the stove. I'll have to ruin a piece of countertop soon... <G>

4. 
   CapnMac | Jan 10, 2008 10:27pm | #8

   could do that with wood, but again since this is a one shot deal

   Yeah, wood is much better on knife edges than glass.

   My inclination would be to use a 3/8" inset lip door edge on the board, which allows a clean overlap of the CT cutout.  But, that may be biased from havign the bits lurking about in my "stuff" too.

   Sure is nice, though.  You layout whatever is needed on some ply or masonite.  Make the cutout exactly that size.  Then a 3/4" (or 5/8") template collar on the router makes a "just right" cutout.

   Now, finishing the cutout, so it looks "pretty," that's another issue entirely.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)