First time installing gutters. Had new roof installed along with drip edge. The original roof did not have drip edge. I removed the old gutters before the new roof planning on having the new gutters hung BEFORE the new roof and drip edge was installed, well circumstances did not allow my plan to go as I intended. My question is when hanging the new gutters how far under the drip edge should they be mounted? I want to use hidden fasteners but they will only allow the gutter to tuck-up under the drip edge about 1″ unless I cut/notch the drip edge where the fasteners are located. The drip edge is the larger 2″ stuff.
Which is better, the hidden fasteners or screws/ferrules?
Replies
Which is better, the hidden fasteners or screws/ferrules?
Hidden fasteners. Spikes and ferrules are obsolete. I haven't used them in 10 years.
copper p0rn
I have never seen a gutter installer try to tuck the gutter under the drip edge. Your roofing should overhang ~1" and there should be no problem getting the water to fall into the gutter.
I wouldn't do a gutter without fitting it under, or using a splash shield to fit under.To the OP - as long as it is under, it is fine
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I concur with
davidmeilandI've done too many remodel jobs to know that if the water can get through, it will. Not to mention snow and ice. I protect the fascia first, if it needs to be re-done down the line (or even painted) the gutter is in the way. What I like to do is wrap the fascia under the gutter (stuck with color though) and just as in lap siding or shingles or anything else that sheds water, lap an aluminum extention under the drip edge that laps the gutter. Tapered if neccesary, and a dab of caulk over where the fasteners punch through.
Not sure what you are getting at. David simply observed that gutter specialists don't bother about iot."lap an aluminum extention under the drip edge that laps the gutter."I said same. You and I agreed.
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What type of gutter hangers are you using that would allow tucking under the drip edge? The usual here is an ogee gutter with a concealed hanger that tucks into the front of the gutter and slips down over the back, with a small lag that goes thru into the fascia. If you wanted to tuck the gutter under the drip you couldn't use these. I prefer them because I can unscrew and remove a gutter in a few seconds if I need to. Also, the drip edge is often a bit longer than the gutter so it would have to be snipped at the ends to allow tucking. Last, if the gutter gets full of stuff and there's standing water, won't it be able to wick up under the drip edge if it's tucked? I've never seen a problem with installing over the drip, I don't think it help the gutters function at all and it might compromise the drip in some situations.
What you describe is exactly the kind we use, and I do tuck the back under the drip edge. Can't imagine why you say you can't. Putting it over the drip is just plain wrong. That diverts water behind the gutter. When I see those done that way, they always have rot behind them from that trapped water."Also, the drip edge is often a bit longer than the gutter so it would have to be snipped at the ends to allow tucking."
Don't know what you mean. There is about 1/2" to 5/8" on the back of gutter that can fit up under th edrip edge."if the gutter gets full of stuff and there's standing water, won't it be able to wick up under the drip edge if it's tucked?"It is my job to install it right. it is somebody else's job to keep it keep for the next 20-30 years.
But when gutter is full, it will overflow the front side, not the back, because they are made with the back taller than the front.
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Use a fascia apron on the back and the hangers screw thru it .
The apron is behind the DE.
we always start our gutter under the drip edge.... but the pitch brings it below the drip edge
we use fascia hangers and ss screwsMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
"the pitch brings it below the drip edge"When that happens, use what I called a shield, or Walter called an apron
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Would your approach be the same without snow/ice in the winter?
My answer is yes. David, I can't imagine not at least starting the gutter under the DE.
I wonder if this is an east coast, west coast thing?
yes, water still runs downhill
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What are the details on the shield/apron ?
slip of metal up under the drip edge and down over the back of the gutter
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Mike-
I'm interested to know what hangers and screws you use. I'm going to be hanging some gutters for the first time soon and I'm not satisfied with any of the hangers I can source locally. I want to use a concealed hanger (one that clips onto the front lip of the gutter, then screws through the backside), but all the ones I've seen have a plain steel screw with them. Do you guys get the hangers and screws together, or are they parts you source separately? Also you said you use fascia hangers - are those the ones that you mount before you put the gutter up? If you could post a pic, I'd be grateful.
And I've never seen one that wasn't under the drip edge. I can't even imagine why you'd leave it on top. If our roofing hung over an inch it would point at the ground.
Thanks for the responses. After looking more closely at things I have a few more questions. First the drip edge installed is painted metal (not sure if it's galvanized or just just plain steel) will there be any problems with using aluminum gutters and corrosion where the two different materials come in contact?
Which is a better choice, Home Depot's painted steel or Lowes "Hi tensile strength" aluminum gutters? I'm leaning toward the aluminum from lowes since I have a 10% off coupon and they should not rust. How much will the aluminum expand and contract? I have a section 13 ft long between 2 inside cornors (oct/nov 2008 issue of Fine home building has an article on installing gutters and mentions on pg 54 to cut the gutter short of a tight fit, but does not say how much)
I notice the roofers installed the drip edge with it firmly pressed up aginst the fascia board, is this correct? The Amerimax metal gutter system installation guide at Lowes and HD says the drip edge should be installed so it projects 1/2" beyond the fascia board.
Just a suggestion, but check into having your gutters custom run for you on site rather than getting lengths at the big box. I'm not a pro but I've done several and I had no problem getting a local firm to "run them and drop them". They didn't even balk. You get the benefit of continuous gutters then and you can still install them. Big benefit to them was its an easy job to run them and leave them laying on the ground and they only had to send one guy out to do it. I would make sure you tell them you want them ready to go meaning have the drops cut out if not affixed as well and all the downspouts included.
If you install on a cold day. leave a good 3/8" on that 13' run. On a hot day fit almost snug.drip edge better left 1/4" or so free of the fascia, but common to find it tight. You can install gutter just below it, then add slips of AL apron just in under the drip edge to guide water to the gutter. With both painted, I wouldn't worry about the corrosion.
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