Replies

1. 
   chasmd | Jan 07, 2009 08:17pm | #1

   Watch out for the wall thickness. Make sure you have an angle grinder to help slip them in place and a thin, strong prybar

2. 
   CheckerContracting | Jan 07, 2009 08:41pm | #2

   Are you looking at installing knock-down type (where they come in three pieces) or fully welded?

   Fully welded will (or should) come with clips from the fab shop that snap into the throat of the frame and then wrap around the rough opening studs and get screwed.

   There should also be a clip at the base of the frame that allows you to secure the frame to the floor.

   Fully welded need to install prior to drywall. And then when you board the walls, the drywall tucks in behind the face of the frame. That can be a chore at times as it will be a tight fit.

   Knock down frames are installed after the wall is boarded. Head piece slips in first, then the jambs.  The joints between the head and jambs are mitered and there will be a screw hole on the top of the head piece at each miter to run a screw in to draw the miters closed.

   There will also be a screw hole on either side of the jambs, at the bottom for attaching the HM frame to the wall framing.

   Also on each jamb there will be at least one screw, in the center of the frame (center of door opening) for plumbing the jambs. Driving the screw in pushes a small plate against the wall framing to move the jambs in and out.

    

   Shawn

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   Checker Contracting - SE Michigan

3. 
   mike4244 | Jan 07, 2009 09:03pm | #3

   There are different types of metal door frames. Some are three piece that go up after the drywall is up. I dislike this type because they can move out of adjustment easily. Slamming a door shut may do this. The mitered corners have a spline on the head and the legs fir into the spline. There are three or more screws in the jambs that when adjusted correctly will give you the correct margin. The screws back up against the metal studs and push the jamb out to a straight line.When I ran work I always had carpenters drill and tap a 6/32  hole in the miter on the leg side to keep the miter together. We used a 6/32 brass screw and before painting the heads were ground down and bondo if needed.

   One piece frames for drywall or masonry are done differently. Both frames are erected first. Then the masonry ties into the door frame with door ties that come with the frames.The bricklayer installs these as he goes.Spreaders at the bottom and middle are neccesary to keep the frame from bowing as it fill with mortar.The frames are plumbed and racked after the feet  are fastened. "buckups" is a term used for the temporary braces I used for plumb and wrack.Just  a pipe with another pipe that slides inside to lengthen or shorten the distance.A U shaped end that has thumb screws to attach to the frame and a couple more thumb screws to fasten the two pipes at the length you need.

   With drywall the rocker has to slip the rock behind the frame flanges,easier said then done.Spreaders not needed,otherwise plumbed and wracked like a masonry frame.

   Almost all the time the feet are shot down with a power actuated gun after leveling.I have another way that I like better.The feet have two holes in each one. I set the frame to the layout. Then using a rotohammer, bore a 1/4" hole thru the hole in the foot about 2"or so deep.I install a plastic plug thru the hole and even with the slab .I screw the foot down tight, do not bother leveling yet.Repeat for the other hole and then repeat on the other jamb.Now level the head,what ever side is low you back off the screws and shim.Then screw down tight . Very easy to adjust to get the head dead level.I doubt that shooting down the feet saves any time,considering fussing around leveling and all.

   Use a plumb bob with a U shaped magnet to hold the line.If you have a magnetic level that you are sure is accurate that will work fine.I always check the head with a framing square besides the level. For double doors an instrument or at least a water level will come in handy.

   mike