Replies

1. 
   Mitremike | Mar 04, 2005 07:20am | #1

   I did the same thing for a friend who had a steel out building and we got a box of self-tapping screws and some plastic washers, Like the kind the roofing guns use to wind lock tar paper and put it up just like SR. Worked great --do it in any type of weather and don't have to deal with dirt, rust etc on the steel ribs.

   Just as a side note--some places frown on foam board being uncovered for fire reasons but in a storage building that is unattached they may not mind, Hope this helps , mike

1. 
   Ozlander | Mar 04, 2005 10:07pm | #2

   Sounds like a lot of holes in the roof which is 22x50.

1. 
   Mitremike | Mar 05, 2005 06:50am | #7

   Oz ---I see what you mean about the roof but I was invising corragated sheets over struts or purlins and a side wall frame with some sort of stud work. Guess it is one of those "gotta see it " Well that was the situation and my buddies steel out building so that I guess the minds eye don't apply to yours. Mike

2. 
   basswood | Mar 05, 2005 03:40am | #3

   PL300 is the adhesive for foamboard, it is probably sticky enough to hold the stuff to the walls w/o fasteners. The ceiling may take some more creative solution.

1. 
   Ozlander | Mar 05, 2005 04:37am | #4

   I was thinking about trying water based contact cement.

1. 
   basswood | Mar 05, 2005 06:03am | #5

   That could work, PL300 may also work on the ceiling w/o fasteners or bracing, give it a try first on one sheet.

1. 
   IMERC | Mar 05, 2005 06:50am | #6

   it will hld it but you may experice some sag making things uneven

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

2. 
   BillHartmann | Mar 05, 2005 07:52am | #8

   With relatively roughness of the surface of the foam I don't think that contact cement will hold very well.I would use one of the pannel ahesive/construction adhesvies that are OK with foam.IIRC I used PL Preminum. But check the label I that may not be the right one.Also I would check to see if the metal has and oils on it from manufacturing.

1. 
   Ozlander | Mar 05, 2005 07:30pm | #9

   Thanks for all the replies.

   It's an all metal 30 X 50 building. I could put up furring strips and such. But that seems right a lot of work if the PL-300 does the job.

   Building is 20 years old and all the oil seems to be gone. So it's not like I have to get it right the first time. I'll do a little experimenting as I go. I'll try the PL-300 on a couple of pieces and if it works I'll go on. If not, I'll try something else. Ceiling will be the hard part.

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 05, 2005 08:06pm | #10

   PL 300 is the right one for foam but I don't know the set time for it - on a cieling that could be a challenge. How long you want to stand there holding it up while the glue kicks???Im tinking of Enerfoam. Spray urethene foam out of a gun, compare one can of it to about twenty tubes of caulk style. Sets up quick. very sticky
   But again, I don't know about long term - you could have a lot of thermal expansion in the metal roof that might break the bond over time. Maybe contact the company for specs and answers. They decveloped it originally for a sheet rock glue on cielings and walls. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 05, 2005 08:09pm | #11

   Urethane foam or RTV silicone both work well.  I'd personally go with the first one.

   WSJ

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 06, 2005 12:13am | #12

   OK, Now we have to figure out what to do about the colour. paint the pink foam or start driving a pink pickup truck and wearing lipstick? 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!