i remove the door from the jamb and remove the doorstops, pull out the stapels from jamb or stops, then i fasten the hingeside with 3″ screws where the stop was, put the door back on the hinges and shim the other side of the jamb so i have a nice even gap between the door and the jamb, use plenty of shims and screws on that side, then i nail the stops back on and all the screws are hidden behind the stops.just wondering if anybody else installs prehung doors this way. thanks for any feedback
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Prehung doors
Sounds like a lot of work.
I first measure the floor to find the high side. Then I check the RO for plumb and correct size. I check to see if the walls are in plane, and if the RO studs are twisted or not.
I set the jamb side first, usually just tacking it in until I'm sure everything will go right. If the floor in the jamb side is the high spot, OK. If the floor on the latch side is the high spot, I make sure to trim the bottom of the jamb, or raise the hinge side jamb so I have enough room to raise the latch side if needed to get the top level.
I make sure the jambs are flush with the finished walls, level the top, tack it in. Plumb the latch side, tack it in. Check the door swing, the gap, and the stops. If everything is good, I nail it all off.
I use shims behind each hinge, above and below the latch, and then near top and bottom of latch side. Usually in the top I shim in the middle.
I used to use a lot more shims, thinking it made it more solid. Then I realized that the casing will tie everything together, so I use fewer shims now.
If there is a large gap on the sides, I will tack in some spacers and shims to get it plumb before putting the unit in the opening.
nope.........
On hollow cores, nails and trim will hold them forever if installed properly.
Sollid core? I use a long screw on the hinge...............which reminds me-running low on the comparable 2.5 screw stash. Nothing worse than a drywall screw in that position......................but I've seen it done.