| I am installing a couple of Halo H99ICT recessed lights (See details at http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi…pdf/H99ICT.pdf) over the vanities in a bathroom remodel and it just dawned on me I might have a problem, code wise. The “attic” area above the lights is very small with a top of ceiling to top of roof sheathing of less than 12 inches. With no ceiling now in place they are easy to wire but once the drywall ceiling goes up there will be no way to access the integral junction box on each fixture without tearing out the ceiling. I know, in general, all splices and connections must be accessible without tearing out permanent construction. Any comments? | |
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Replies
I think the intention behind the code is that there not be surprise junction boxes buried under framing or drywall. However, with a recessed can light you KNOW there is a junction box attached to it - they are all like that.
Maybe you should consider a retrofit can, those are installed and removed via only the light hole - the box follows them out.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Oh, good Lord, no. But I can give him two dollars and an assault rifle.
Bob,
You're O.K. The link didn't work for me, but every new work can light is designed so that you can reaqch the j-box after the fixture is installed. The nice, expensive ones, like the Juno IC-2, have an acess panel in the well of the housing, the part you install the lamp into.
The cheapies, you have to remove the can housing itself. In the process, the housing usually gets messed up, especially the Home Cheapo house brand, where the aluminum sheet stock is just slightly heavier gage than aluminum foil.
For old work cans, you just remove the whole fixture from the ceiling. Decent quality Halo or Juno pots, can be removed and re-installed. The trick is to make the hole slightly oversize, maybe an eighth inch more than spec. The Home Cheepo ones, basically self destruct on removal.
Work safe,
Cliff