Hi all,
I’m generally pretty good with finding info and tutorials online, but I’ve not found a consistent answer on this. This is a DIY project that I thought would be fun for me and my teenage sons to do this summer.
I’m re-building an old shed and was able to get a good deal on standard grade pine shiplap. My plan is to put 2 coats of solid stain on this and install it as the shed’s siding.
Questions about installing shiplap:
– fastener: I’ve read SS nails, hot dipped galvanized nails, or screws. Is this really just preference?
– fastening: These are 1×8 boards. I’m gathering that at each stud I should put 1 fastener a few inches above the lap. Is that correct?
– To clarify – the fastener does NOT go through the overlap, correct?
– underlayment – is house wrap fine, or do I need OSB? Saw an article here (about a house, not shed)that recommended house wrap, furring strips on the studs to create a gap, then the siding. That’s the plan, and I would rather use house paper than OSB.
– joints – do I need to do anything special at where the boards come together other than a fastener?
– adhesive – do I need to use adhesive on any of this, or are fasteners fine?
I don’t know if my online search skills dropped off, but I haven’t seen a video, or clear article, that brings all of this info together.
thanks in advance for your help!
Replies
Here is a YouTube video that should provide some answers on the attachment side of things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SodypzNcpoY
Fasteners: SS or Galvanized is a must. Either one you choose should be fine as long as they work with the stain/chemicals being applied to the boards.
Fastener Location: Depends on the thickness of the overlap. Either way make sure your fasteners align horizontally and vertically so they don't stand out to the naked eye.
Underlayment: You should be able to install this directly over the stud, just follow manufacturer's instructions. Some products provide a 2 in 1 WRB + Furring: Tyvek Drainvent, Benjamin Obdyke Slickermax, etc.
Joints: Make sure butt joints land over a stud and usually providing 1/8" gap for movement. Similar thing applies to the corners. You can slip some flashing behind the joint to hide the membrane from showing through - similar to what is used when installing fiber cement lap siding. Stagger joints, don't stack.
Adhesive: Not necessary.
Thank you so much for all of this! This is exactly what I needed!
If you decide to only use house wrap make sure you brace the wall with angle bracing. Look at the IRC code for wall construction.
OSB/Plywood takes the place of needing diagonal bracing. The gap between the house wrap is a rain screen, so if water does get behind the siding it can drain down the wall along the house wrap and drain away/evaporate instead of just sitting there trapped.
Zip system sheathing is probably the way to go for a small shed since you’re installing the siding. I always use T1-11 siding/panels as they kill two birds with one stone.