Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 21, 2004 03:09pm | #1

   Last one I did the mfgr had premade IC's and OC's..check into it.

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2. 
   CloudHidden | Mar 21, 2004 03:25pm | #2

   When I did one, I used something more rigid than the tin to hold each piece flat against the ceiling for nailing. Those sheets are too floppy to hold easily and nail. Make up something to hold it flat and you'll more easily avoid humps. I like Sphere's info on the corners.

3. 
   Mongo | Mar 21, 2004 03:56pm | #3

   It helps to skin the ceiling with ply. Half or 3/8ths works fine.

   EDIT to add (doh!):

   For the cornice, its shape is often deformed as it's cut, and deforming it can lead to a wandering cut line which can lead to an uneven seam.

   If cutting by hand, use a fine-tooth hacksaw and try cutting in one direction only, with uni-directional strokes, and always cutting from top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top. Easier, and usually more consistant, is using a chop saw with a metal-cutting blade. Always power cut the miters from the same direction as well...top of the cornice to bottom, etc. You can usually make a small wood jig to act as a backer for the trim while you cut it, to keep it from flexing.

   Once the cornice is installed, and if required, you can gently ping the mitered cut line into place and tighten up the seam with a hammer and a nailset.

   
   

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   Edited 3/21/2004 9:16 am ET by Mongo

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 21, 2004 04:13pm | #4

   an don't forget the goofy headed decorative-smashyerfinger-nails..I used a narrowcrown stapler on the underlaps..on 1x3 furring @12" centers..a siding j channel punch/nailholder helps a lot.

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   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.