FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Installing Valley Trusses????

bhackford | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 26, 2005 03:58am

What is the best way to install valley trusses? String ling on top and then push into position?? Thanks

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. FramerT | Jun 26, 2005 04:03am | #1

    Do you mean hip,as in a lay-over set?

    1. bhackford | Jun 26, 2005 04:23am | #2

      For two intersecting roofs. Usually, I would stick frame but the truss company sent valley trusses. I thought since they were here already it would be faster. But I have no experience with these so any suggestions for the install are appreciated. Thanks

      Edited 6/25/2005 9:24 pm ET by BHACKFORD

  2. User avater
    BossHog | Jun 26, 2005 03:48pm | #3

    Stringing a line then pushing them up to it is probably the best method.

    I could calculate the exact theoritical position a valley truss should be in down to the thousandth of an inch. But in reality, variations in material thickness and bows in the lumber make that impractical. So ya just stick 'em where they fit the best.

    Some truss manufacturers figure valley trusses from the peak down, and others do it from the bottom up. Asking them what they did ahead of time might save you some head scratching.

    You feel stuck with your debt if you can't budge it.
    1. FramerT | Jun 26, 2005 05:21pm | #4

      As Boss said, run a top string line. I used to pop a chalk line either side where sheathing hits the roof up to where the string line is nailed[peak].
      If the trusses are dead-on you might get away pulling 24oc, but just putting them on the chalk line and peak to string is easy.Hope we're on the same page this time :)

      1. bhackford | Jun 27, 2005 04:30am | #8

        Thanks for the advice. I did a few today in 95 degree heat! And yes one truss was out 3/4 of an inch and there is a sheating gap but the shingles will hide it. Thanks to everyone for the good advice.

  3. Woodbutcher | Jun 26, 2005 05:38pm | #5

    Assuming you already have a gable truss installed to go off of:

    First, sheath the roof in question.

    Level over from the peak to determine the height of the ridge line.  Find center by pulling measurements diagonally up from the same point down low on the gable truss. 

    Now you have a point from which to snap valley lines and string the peak.

    Plane from the gable to the lowest point on the other roof (the one you are putting the valley sets on)  on both sides of the gable,  then snap lines from the point of the peak down to those marks.  Now you have a stringline for the paeks and chalklines for the pointy ends of the valley set trusses. 

     Now just have 3 guys, one on each end lining up the points with the chalklines and one in the middle, keeping the truss plumb and lining up the peak with the stringline,  once you have all three in position, nail the truss to the roof. (make sure you hit trusses on the other roof, but then You already knew that...lol)

    A couple of things,  I always string the peak about 1/2" high and eyeball the peaks about 1/2" below the string,  this keeps the trusses from pushing the string higher and higher. 

    Also, depending upon how well the trusses are made, sometimes those three points just won't all line up, you've just got to fudge them a little, my experience is that it's best to keep the peaks correct and fudge the valley points, nobody will notice if the valley is slightly off,

     

    All in all, I feel that it's actually easier and better to field frame these with a ridgeboard and rafters, but  you don't want to alter the design that the truss company sent you,  they tend to frown on that sort of thing around here.

    1. User avater
      BossHog | Jun 26, 2005 06:32pm | #6

      "All in all, I feel that it's actually easier and better to field frame these with a ridgeboard and rafters..."

      So do I.

      The only exception would be on REALLY large valleys, like maybe 40' and up.
      I was thinking that women should put pictures of missing husbands on beer cans.

    2. Nails | Jun 27, 2005 05:42am | #9

      Everything you said was bang on. especially about having to fudge things. (I guess building trusses is not treated as rocket science) the only thing that I'd add is that we always nail a 2x4 skid block flat along the bottom side of the bottom cord.

      EDIT: one other thing, don't forget - after you've got your valley trusses up and before you sheet it cut an access hole.

      Edited 6/27/2005 11:28 am ET by nails2

      1. Woodbutcher | Jun 29, 2005 03:57am | #10

        No, No !    You're  s'posed to do that from underneath, with a cordless sawzall that the battery keeps popping off of, after the insulation has been blown in, in august, While the general is standing there mad because it kept him from passing the final.

        It's funner that way.    LOL

        1. User avater
          dieselpig | Jun 29, 2005 04:33am | #11

          Bahahaha!  Hilarious dude.

        2. Nails | Jun 29, 2005 07:39am | #17

          LOL...best laugh I had all day! that's a hilarious image!

  4. MarkCadioli | Jun 26, 2005 11:44pm | #7

    we call ours "diminishers". First we establish the point where the ridge will strike. To do this we measure from outside of top plate to the truss peak  ( along the top chord run basically ), then transfer this measurement further along to where the ridge will strike. Then we string that point. From that point we run two  ( or only one line depending on if we have a hip on one side )  down to establish the valley.

    Then our valley trusses are set up to both the ridge line and the valley line. As we don't sheath this system works for us, but if you are sheathing I guess it would not be possible to establish the ridge / valley point by measurement.

     

    regards

     

    Mark

    http://www.quittintime.com

  5. blue_eyed_devil | Jun 29, 2005 04:36am | #12

    We rarely get those shipped but most of the advice was/is good.

    Myself, since I hate strings, I'd probably just lay a 2x4 on top of the gable and level it. I'd sight it in straight to the projected barge board (our overhangs are always done before we set the gable) and then just bump each valley truss up to the center of the temp ridge board.

    blue

     

  6. User avater
    dieselpig | Jun 29, 2005 04:48am | #13

    For the record.... when trying to find out where your ridge will land on a layover roof (or the centerline of your valley trusses) there's an easy formula so you can put away the long crooked 2x4 and 4' level.

     

    If you've got a construction master calculator...

    RISE (of the smaller layover roof)

    PITCH (of the roof it will lay on)

    RUN= length of ridgeboard or distance from the gable to where it hits the other roof.

    As long as your gable is level, yer good to go.  The formula assumes equal heel-stands and equal plate heights of the two roofs though.  Still works if they're not equal, you just have to make the appropriate adjustment to the RISE number.  Don't forget to subtract the sheathing dimension if the larger roof is sheathed before you build the layover roof.

    1. blue_eyed_devil | Jun 29, 2005 05:06am | #14

      Dies, you don't need a construction master to calculate the placement of the ridge. I've calculated it for years using my $5 dual mode, especially if I have to cut in a long ridge.

      Total rise of the snipped gable, divided by pitch of main roof gives you the run. The run is the ridge length. In most cases, you can quickly measure the total rise of the gable before you send it up to be set.

      The snipped gable means snipped (or marked) at the dropped ridge height. Often, if I'm cutting a small valley system up in the air (I do 90% in the air) I snip the top and use my torpedo to level the ridge to get my length.

      blue

      ps we dont' have any crooked linial here in michigan 

      1. User avater
        dieselpig | Jun 29, 2005 05:20am | #15

        Same town... different highways... your formula and mine.   I try to cut everything I can on the ground and just boom it up to my guys... that's why I'm always trying to find formulas for stuff or at least get my head around the math concepts involved.

        I hate standing at the horses and having to run up two stories for a measurement just to keep cutting.  Much rather stand on the ground in front of the lumber pile with a calculator and plans and just cut and stack.

        You seem to have a bad taste in your mouth about Construction Master calculators.  Like they're a gimmick or something.  I'm sure you can do most of what the CM's do with your pocket calculator, I just think that they are a great tool and can eliminate an awful lot of mistakes that happen when converting feet/inches to 12th's and decimals.  They've also come down so much in price over the past year or two that the price is really easily justified.  Don't knock it till you've given it a fair shake. 

        EDIT:  And I'd be happy to send you some of my crooked lineal stock any time you'd like.  I've got plenty to go around.

        Edited 6/28/2005 10:21 pm ET by dieselpig

        1. blue_eyed_devil | Jun 29, 2005 05:43am | #16

          Diesel, I have a CMIV. I cant make it work for me because I already know how to fly through all the calcs necessary for most roof framing applications with the cheapie. When I try to fly through with the cm4, I slow to a crawl. I suppose if i'd have started with one back in the 70's, I'd be using one today. There are some huge issues that I've encountered with the Cm when I go through my processes when I use the Cm.

          You are right, same town different highways. I don't use a cut man on the ground. For the simple layons, I just send the parts up raw and start hacking and stacking up there on the roof. On our crew, every man cuts for himself.

          My methods stem from my days when I didn't have equipment. It was much easier just leaning up 16' stock then sending up all the small cut rafters and trying to balance them somewhere. I learned to create my workstations up there in birdland and I taught all my guys to do the same. Occasionally if the weather sucks up there, they'll do their cutting on the deck under the layon, but that's a rarity for me.  

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Old House Air-Sealing Basics

Look high and low to find and plug air leaks that cost you money and comfort.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 692: Introduction to Trade Work, Embodied Carbon, and Envelope Improvements
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Embodied Greenhouse Gas Emissions and the Building Codes
  • Old Boots Learn New Tricks
  • Install Denim Insulation Like a Pro

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data