Replies

1. 
   FastEddie | Feb 16, 2007 12:58am | #1

   If you're talking about pre-finished woodgrain paneling with the grooves ...

   PowerGrab is fine.  You could use a less expensive adhesive.  One thing to watch for with the cheaper ones like Liquid nails is that they will skin over if you wait too long before setting the panel.

   If you are installing over bare studs, then the joints should fall on a stud.  If you are installing over sheetrock, then it is not as much an issue.  However, you will find that the grooves will align with studs at 16" or 24" layout, and if you start on a stud then you can put the nails through a groove so they don't show as much.  Or use lots of adhesive and just nail at the top and botto, and cover the nails with base and crown.

   Don't leave a gap between sheets.  If you look carefully at the edges, you will see that they are designed to overlap a little.

   For electrical cutouts where a plate will cover the opening, you can use most any jigsaw blade.  be carefult that the shoe does not scratch the finish of the panel.  If you use a circular say, just buy a decent new blade, carbide tipped, and cut from the back side. 

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   Mic25 | Feb 16, 2007 04:24am | #2

   Thanks for replie Eddie,

   What would you suggest as a less expensive adhesive? I plan on dry fitting the panel and then putting the adhesive on and nailing off, so I'm not really worried about it "skining over". Also when I make the cuts for outlets with my jigsaw, should they be made from the back also? I read somewhere that I should use a "downstroke laminate blade" which I am unfamiliar with. Does that sound like something I need?

   Mick

1. 
   calvin | Feb 16, 2007 05:44am | #3

   mic,  you could use a downstroke blade if this paneling is prone to splintering the veneer all up.  Or, cut on the backside-not easy layout as you have to think backwards for the layout.  Simpler method would be to score the grain with a utilty knife, cut just shy of the score.  This would be layed out on the front side.  What you see  is what you get.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   FastEddie | Feb 16, 2007 07:05am | #4

   What Calvin said about cutting outlets.  Easiest would be to score with a knife then cut just insoide the line.  Don't forget that  the coverplate overlaps the hole by half an inch.

   Look for an off brand of goo at the store.  Soemtimes you can find brand-x liquid nails for 99 cents a tube.  You'll probably get 2 or 3 panels per tube.

   What kind of jigsaw do you have?  If it's a cheapie Skil or something that takes cheapie blades, you may not be able to find a reverse tooth blade.  Bosch makes one for their saw, but I think you have to buy a 5-pack for $15.  Just cutting paneling you will not wear out the first one, so it's probably not practical for you to buy.  Don't take it wrong, a cheapie saw will cut the paneling just fine."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   Mic25 | Feb 16, 2007 05:04pm | #5

   Thanks fellas,

   You've been a great help

   Mick

2. 
   steve | Feb 17, 2007 05:01am | #6

   lots of good advice on adhesives etc, most panelling can be cut with a straight edge and a utility knife

   windows, door openings and electrical stuff can be cut just the same as drywall ie rotozip or a router with a bearing guided bit, ie a laminate trimmer bit works well