I’m not a pro and want to make sure I am not doing something stupid.
I’m about to start installing pine bevel siding to tyvek wrapped and 1x-strapped walls. I’ll back prime the boards with SW A-100 latex primer first. I’ve tested the siding moisture – it’s 10 to 12%.
I’ll be installing over the next few days and the forecast is for cold (1-12 C) and occasional showers. Before I get a chance to prime and paint the face of the boards it will likely rain for at least 2 days.
Will this installation last? Anything I should I know about?
While I’m at it, how big a gap between board ends and my corner boards should I leave? I’m thinking none – just touching but not tight. Then latex caulking when all done.
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You don't say, but I assume you will be painting inside, and not out in the rain...
I always order my siding preprimed tro avoid that hassle with weather, but you will probably be OK if the wood is not any wetter when you prime it.
that SW a-100 is a good paint, but really stinks and causes headaches - potent stuff - unless they changed the formula in th e last ten years since I used it last.
I like to cut siding to snug and run the verticle caulk to corner board behind it, just before I seat each piece of siding. Then paint fills the tinmy gap left and redundant stops of the caulk and tarpaper are behind the joint.
If you are going to install all the siding first, then leave it 1/8 short to leave a space for caulk to fill.
Regardless - paint each cut end before nailing it up. One job I have lined up for as soon as I can get to it is replacing siding and a cornerboard on a job that another contractor did six years ago facing some high wind driven rains. He did not seal the end cuts and the clapboard is getting punky already and the paint is flaking off all within a foot of the cornerboard
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Thanks Piffen! You are a home building advice MACHINE!
I'll paint inside or during sunny breaks for sure. And for sure will bed board ends in latex caulking (got some "50 year" stuff).
For the 'step flashing' behind board ends, I was thinking of using Tyvek squares. One square per board behind it and lapping over the board beneath down to just shy of the reveal. I that overkill?
can't hurt a thing
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Something else -
IO can gernreally arrange my work so wwe are saviong the inside work fo rbad weather and do the exterior in the good weather, but sometimes we just get stuck having to run siding and ext trim in the rain.
When we do, I fit up a tarp or plastic sheet from under the fascia to a couple of poles and rope it snug on a side away from the wind so we don't get too miserable with rain dripping down the back of the neck.
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i bought factory primed cedar shakes and factory primed cedar beveled siding, 2 different primers, several months after it was installed and painted with 2 topcoats of california paint, which is supposed to be the best, i got bleed through on my cedar shakes. i called the paint manufacturer and they told me always prime even if its factory primed. i guess i wasted my money and somebody is bullsh///// me.
Cabot's is pretty good for cedar. I wonder what kind of primer/sealer you had. The tannins in cedar and redwood are hard to seal in.With regards to repriming, any primer is only intended to have thirty days of exposure to UV rays and weather, then it should be sanded a bit to take off the chaulking surface to get a good bond. That thirty days is modified by weather and location on the house, of course.california paints are fairly decent, but this is the first I've heard anyone say the best.
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