I plan to remodel my two back-to-back bathrooms this year (again – last time 25 years ago). My question is on the plumbing wall which sits between them and runs from the master bedroom to the kitchen. ( 1950’s house – Northern California )
Is there a reason NOT to insulate (close off ) the plumbing wall ?
The house, built in the early 50’s, had very little insulation until recently as the new roof and siding gets done. That will take care of the exterior walls and roof but that leaves me with the interior plumbing wall. Searches on the web only seems to bring up “…plumbing on exterior wall…”. Construction books seem to overlook this issue also.
The interior plumbing wall is a 2×4 plate and wall (studs laid ‘flat’) on one side and another 2×4 plate and wall on the other with an open gap of 4″ between them for the piping – remember built in the 40’s-50’s. It’s 10′ long from bedroom to kitchen. Both top and bottom (crawlspace and roof attic) are totally open. Cold air flows between the crawlspace and the roof. Piping is new copper water pipes and new ABS plastic vent/drain pipe (which replaced old galvianized water and cast iron vent/drain). Small house under 1200 sqft single level.
I feel this is a hugh uninsulated space in the middle of my house. Both bathroom walls sweat at times in the winter more so when shower is used. Back of toliets seems to sweat slightly all year.
Reason for this “wide open space” ? (health & safety ?)
What insulation can be done in an interior plumbing wall ? I’m willing to sheetrock and insulate each wall where practical – leaving the middle open.
Can I close off the bottom and top of this space – then isulate the total open wall area in-between and around all pipe openings ?
Does it require total ventilation from ground to attic ?
Any good sources ( books, articles ) for finding out what can be done in this space ?
Thanks
Replies
So you're saying you have a plumbing "chase" that is open to both the crawl and the attic?
Unless there are flues from gas appliances in there, or the space is somehow intended to supply "makeup air" from the attic to, eg, a gas furnace in the crawl, or there are some weird (not current code) plumbing vent openings in there, there is no reason to not fully (and tightly) enclose the space (and insulate top and bottom).
Interior plumbing wall
Yes, there are no gas or other type of vents near this area - nearest area ( heater / water heater closet 5 feet by 5 feet ) is five feet away and has it's own ventilation ( no ceiling and floor vent from crawl space ). Nothing else touches this plumbing wall.
I have no idea why it was set up this way other than this was a quick built sub-division ( over 200 houses ) in the late 40's / early 50's for worker housing ( new Masonite Plant - 4 shifts operation ) ; lack of worker housing for new plant. Masonite built the houses using a lot of imported Masonite products. Another example of the way they built them; no rebar in concrete porch, carport, or attached shed slab. Just a little ( very little ) grid wire found in front edge of carport. Raised cement porch adjacent to carport; 5 feet wide, 19 feet long , 8 inches thick, no metal. All this with a roof over it (it's 20x20 space under main roof) held up with one 4 x 4 wood post center beam and two on edge beam 19' long, direct to cement ( post bottom pined with short rebar piece ). I reinforced the posts by using two 2x6 bolted tru the posts and bolted to the beam with a 2x4 for filler on back side - only temporary; new foundation and full walls will replace the opening. No metal makes for easy concrete removal.
Unless I find out something else, I'll go ahead and seal off the whole plumbing wall. I see no reason to have it open and uninsulated.
Thanks for your input.
At the time it was built, in your climate, no one thought much about insulation and air sealing. Likely the original heat was gas space heaters, or a primitive floor furnace, just one step up from a fireplace. No one expected a house to be airtight.
I would not stuff the entire area with insulation -- if you developed a leak in the plumbing (or simply needed to work on it for some reason) that would be a royal mess. Rather, insulate at top and bottom, perhaps with foam board. 4" of foam should be more than enough, so long as it's tightly sealed.
I disagree
3 1/2'' of foam, 4'' would be overkill...
I'd definitely close it off at the attic and the subfloor level and blow it full of either fiberglass or cellulose. Cellulose will dampen sound better, fiberglass is easier to blow. Cost is about the same.
Definitely close it off with osb or plywood to keep vermin out of the space. I see house after house that have spaces like that and mice make a home of it and they stink and die off.