Replies

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Apr 06, 2001 05:35pm | #1

   *
   Gene...We just slip foam between the outside wood...

   near the stream,

   aj

   Your framer could do that without flipping...Also...run foam on inside or outside...1/2" to an inch...

   Did recieve your mailing too...

1. 
   Boss_Hog | Apr 06, 2001 11:50pm | #2

   *So Gene - Is that a question, or an advertisement, or what ?

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Apr 06, 2001 11:58pm | #3

   *Ron...Gene is building...it's a helping question...near the stream,aj

1. 
   Black_Bear | Apr 07, 2001 02:08am | #4

   *We always use 3 2x10 with 1/2 osb or plywood sandiwched in the middle. With typar on the outside and vapor barrier on the inside. I would rather sacrifice a little insulation and have a stronger header. You will lose more heat through the window than the header.

1. 
   Tim_Kline | Apr 07, 2001 04:53am | #5

   *b WBA At Your ServiceI'd be willing to bet that a single 2x10 as a header would suffice in a typical 36" window opening. In all my years I don't think I've ever seen short headers sag even the least bit. Even when undersized as 2x6 or even 2x4. Unless you are spanning large openings, three 2x10's as a header is a waste of lumber and energy. I know it's the traditional way of doing things but it really needs to be rethought. Two 2x10's are certainly adequate and safe in most appllcations.

2. 
   davidmason | Apr 07, 2001 08:10pm | #6

   *I build my headers w/ two 2x10's and a peice of 1/2" on 2x4 walls or two 2x10's no 1/2" w/ a 2x6 laid flat (to provide backing for inside trim on top) ,then insulate w/ 2" foamboard. Dave

3. 
   Boss_Hog | Apr 10, 2001 10:56pm | #7

   *> Gene is building...it's a helping question... O.K. - wasn't sure. I really like the insulated headers, and used them in my own house. It's one of the last places where you can add insulation. They cost only slightly more than two 2X12s with plywood, once you figure in the plywood and the labor to assemble them. Ya gotta watch the span tables, though - the ones I've used aren't much good over a 7' span. Definitely read the instructions - even if you're a "real man"

4. 
   skader | Apr 11, 2001 01:16am | #8

   *I also used the insulated headers on my house. Local lumber yards had not heard of them, I contacted the manufacturer directly and got the name and number of the wholsaler nearest to me. Put the lumber man in touch with the wholesaler and voila, insulated headers. Mine cost me about $6 a foot for 6x12 equivalent. I would say the span is limited to about 6 feet with your average truss load and they do not work with point load applications. The real advantage to me is that they are straight, dont twist, crack or move after installation (as compared to 6x12 or 4x12 lumber headers) and you can carry a 16 footer in one hand. Sure makes raising those long walls easier. I used superior wood systems (www.swi-joist.com). good luckSami

5. 
   samcoinc_ | Apr 11, 2001 02:11pm | #9

   *I am not a builder but I play one on tv- no not really. I am in the process of building my own house. What do you people think about this. 2X whatever(depending on span) in and out for the header but the vertical 2x6 get notched in and out so the headers get set into the wall 2X6's. this gives you 2.5 X 14.5 inches of space between the studs and headers to stuff some foam or fiberglass. I like this also because it keys the header better. does this make sense? I now it is more labor intensive. also the side studs of the opening can go from the sill to the top plate as one member with a notches cut out for the header. What do you think? nuts?sam

6. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Apr 11, 2001 03:20pm | #10

   *Good energy idea...Sam....Do it...I am into something similar..I do not like the doubled up lumber in a wall...And rim joists above can be the header too...near the stream,ajps...thousand old camps on LG...no headers in many...no sags...no failures...3' is real easy to span.

7. 
   Andy_Engel_ | Apr 12, 2001 06:13pm | #11

   *How 'bout this? On gable walls (unless the ridge is structural) and on walls with a rim joist above, headers aren't needed at all for 2/8 or 3/0 openings. You have to use joist hangers where the joists meet the rim, but a single 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 will handle those spans with no problem. For larger spans, you can double or triple the rim joist.Andy

8. 
   Mike_Maines_ | Apr 15, 2001 06:54am | #12

   *Andy, the first builder I worked with liked to use a 2x4 or two on the flat for gable wall windows, and a lot of the Victorians I've worked on have similar. Seems to work out ok (100+ years).AJ and samcoinc, do you double up the studs (king + jack)? The insulated header I've used is a 2x6 on the flat, on top put 2-2x6's or whatever is needed on the inside and outside, and 2" of rigid foam in between. Toenail cripples into top edges of header. Mike

9. 
   TLE_ | Apr 15, 2001 05:47pm | #13

   *My version of a header for 2x6 walls are to spike my 2-2x12s to each other than nail them to the king studs, flush to the outside face, with whatever is needed for jack studs supporting it.One of the last punch list jobs of the framing is to nail a 2 1/2" ripper of scrap 2x on edge along the bottom edge of the header.This leaves a cavity facing the into the room that can be insulated with the walls.If it is a smaller opening, or non load bearing, I will use a single 2x12 with a 4" ripper.Terry

10. 
    Mike_Willms | Apr 15, 2001 08:20pm | #14

    *Terry,Just outa curiosity, why do you use 2x12 header material? If you used 2x10 you wouldn't need the "ripper", just nail a 2x6 on flat under the header. I always finds it odd when people build 2' O.C., and then proceed to use a 2 ply 2x10 header for a window 20" wide.

11. 
    TLE_ | Apr 16, 2001 12:50am | #15

    *I use 2x12, because short of a extremely large opening that would require an over size LVL, all my header heights would be the same.(This is assuming that I will have some larger openings that will require doubled 2x12)I only use 1 ply on openings less than 40" and on any size opening in a gable or other non-bearing wall.I don't claim it is a perfect system, just one that works for me.Terry

2. 
   GeneDavis | Apr 16, 2001 12:50am | #16

   *
   Here in Indiana, the only place I have built a house and bought materials, the header of choice and used by EVERYBODY and I mean EVERYBODY, is the Bear Claw Insulated Header. I've seen the Amish use them for headers in quite a few uninsulated barns, because they must consider them a labor-saver. Two-by top and bottom flanges, and twin OSB webs with a big slab of EPS foam between the webs. Sold in 14 foot lengths in both 5-1/2 and 3-1/2 inch widths. Depth is 11-1/4. No cripples atop them for 8 foot walls. I am now cooking up my framing package list for my upstate New York job, and no one knows about these in the Adirondacks. Anyone have any favorite techniques for insulating headers when they are site-built?