I recently installed a new asphalt roof on my 1906 modified hip roof in Michigan. The roof framing is essentially a hip with a section at the front consisting of a ridge intersecting with one of the hip rafters. That ridge continues forward to the front of the house. This in effect creates another hip section at the front connected by the ridge. To one side of that is a long valley where the footwprint of the house jogs in for the entry. On each of the sides is a mediumish sized dormer. One is new and one exists for headroom for the stariway. This space creates a full walk-up attic that was once finished with plaster and lath. It is a great space that I am aiming to reclaim in the coming years. It is currently 90% gutted of plaster. All of this is framed with full 2 x 4’s. That’s the visual.<!—-><!—-> <!—->
I am looking to take the first step, insulating, to putting that space back to use. My current plan is to place the insulation in the rafter bays. The attic has a knee wall around the perimeter. I would like to continue the insulation down to the eave and keep the space in the knee wall as conditioned and install various built-ins. The current plan goes a little like this. <!—-><!—->
1. Fur down the rafters from eave to the 8-ft high ceiling joists using steel studs screwed to the interior face of the existing rafters. I might add a thermal break of either rips of foam or, if it’s enough, sill sealer.<!—-><!—->
2. Seal with a combination of thermoply, foam board, spray foam all rafter bays at the exterior wall.<!—-> <!—->
3. Install 1.5†poly-iso foam board on the interior of the system with all joint gaps spray foamed and seams taped.<!—-><!—->
4. Dense pack cellulose insulation from the high point of the rafter bay without baffles creating an unvented roof assembly.<!—-> <!—->
5. Install gypboard from kneewall up to and across the ceiling joists. <!—-> <!—->
6. Seal the few penetrations related to electrical in the ceiling plane.<!—-><!—->
My admission is that I may not have done my research for the proper handling of the moisture created within the house. If I can effectively keep the moisture from getting into the roof system through the use of the poly-iso layer (or another vapor barrier system) can I go unvented in my climate with dense pack cells? The design of the roof is difficult enough to vent in its current state. Spray foam is out of the question at this point due to the high cost. I considered after determining the high cost going with foam board installed within the rafter bays and filling any gaps with spray foam. <!—-> <!—->
I’d like some feedback or review of this idea.<!—-> <!—->
Replies
This sounds like a nightmare to vent properly beause of the hips and valleys, and the kneewall, complicated by the shallow 2x4 framing
I doubt I would touch this without using polyurethane foam sprayed in place, such as Corbond. That will handle it all and simplify things much.
Whether to sister the rafters would depend on the needed engineering for snow load.
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Thanks for the insight. I realize the Corbond or other closed cell foam would be the easiest way to go if expense was not an issue. However, I think it is going to be a big issue. Sparying was my original thought until we started looking into the cost.
I am not planning to do anything with regards to sistering for structural revisions. We pulled strings when we did the roof and there was minimal rafter sag. The house has been sitting this way for over 100 years and previously had full plaster and lath on the interior. It will have gyp board in the future. The steep 12 pitch roof currently shed snow when the wind picks up.
ANy other thoughts on a cost effective path to insulating this roof ? Is the method I outlined, when well executed, far off the mark? Is there a hybrid method that I should consider?
Thanks again.
You original detailing would be a decent second choice.
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