got a big old house, no insulation. Attic is big (25×25). 6″ between roof and bottom of rafters. What is the best insulation I can install?
Blow-in foam is out because I need to D/w it after.
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Blow-in foam is out because I need to D/w it after.
Why do you think foam precludes D/W?
http://grantlogan.net/
I was born in a crossfire hurricane..........shooby dooby do
muggs,
foam is blown in and then shaved off the joists. you can then install drywall as normal.. Your best value is foam.. foam is immune to deteriorated ratings from moisture, which can reduce R values to zero or near zero. Foam is unaffected by air flow. fiberglas works in a labratory but it's a poor real world insulator..
Foam will greatly stiffen up the building and make it much more quiet. you need to experiance foam to appreciate it..
Ditto what others said about foam. Check your local codes and roofing manufacturer re: venting requirements. You may need to include some vent pans and soffit & ridge venting in your plans.
Another option is to deepen your rafters with 2X4s or even 2X6s fastened to the underside of the rafters, then blow in cellulose. Same cautions concerning venting, but even more important, and you'll need to include a vapor barrier under the d/w.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
"Blow-in foam is out because I need to D/w it after."
That statement makes no sense to me. If you only have a 6" space, then spraying foam is the ideal way to do this, and it does nothing to prevent you from using sheetrock. What am I missing?
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I don't know anything about blow-in insulation. I just have a roof with no ceiling at the moment. Planning to d/w the ceiling. How should I proceed?
You spray foam; you blow in cellulose or fiberglass.[Well actually, you CAN "blow in" foam as well, but wouldn't in this case, since you don't have a confined space into which to blow it.]In this case you can:-- Spray foam against the bottom of the roof, shave off anything thicker than 6". Drywall over.-- Install ridge and soffit vent, and --
---- Install 2" or so foam across rafters, then drywall over that.
---- Shim out several inches and install fiberglass batts, leaving several inches between bats and bottom of roof. Drywall over the batts.-- Strip roof, install foam board and new decking, reshingle.
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Edited 9/19/2007 3:38 pm by DanH
Hopefully you can view these.
what is AVI format...
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what is AVI format...
moviehttp://grantlogan.net/
I was born in a crossfire hurricane..........shooby dooby do
so much for that...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
This is getting more complicated now.This is an old house 25'squareBut there are no ceiling joists?And the rafters are only 6"?Are you planning a cathedral ceiling? Have you had this re-engineered to handle the load with the ceiling joists taken out?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
First off thank you all, I'm learning a lot.Second; Piffin, no there are no conventional trusses I am used to installing. I have not changed anything structualy. The space does have crawl spaces with walls for the most part on either side extending 5'per side. It looks original and it's been standing since 1912.BTW, do you live on the East Coast; you sound like a man I would like to meet.Pete O'Day[email protected]
Mooney-sorta way
The way I just did it, anyway
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