I need to insulate an exterior wall. I want to do this from the outside of the house by removing the 3/8 sheathing. I am already going to change the siding so the sheathing will be exposed. To insulate from the inside would involve removing the kitchen cabinets and drywall (less mess on the outside). The problem will be as to how to attach the insulation since the vapor has to go on the inside(heated space)? I will not be able to staple it to the studs. Any suggestions?
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The plywood should hold it up.
T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
A few years ago, we blew insulation in the walls of my Brother's house from the outside. We drilled 1" holes in the siding, then blew insulation in through them. Took the better part of a weekend, and we spent about $90 on insuation.
Don't know if it was a great idea without a vapor barrier, but it sure savced him a ton of money on heating costs.
Anything worth doing is worth getting someone else to do.
Click on the Advanced Search button near the top of the left hand frame and search for icynene. Some posters have said that icynene is ideal for your situation, where you're removing the existing sheathing and don't want to disturb the inner surface of the walls.
I agree with the thread drill what ever size holes the hose will accept and fill each cavity with cellulose done it many times the vapor barrier well its better then ripping out all the plaster and lath.
I agree with the blown in solution. Had it done to my last house and it made a huge difference in the heating and cooling. A hole drilled near the top of each bay and one near the bottom then blow away. There's a meter you can then scan the house with to see if any spots have been missed. It's a thermal device that detects heat loss.
Harry's Homeworks
Rhode Island
If you end up sticking with the batt insulation, you've got two options- either use some spray adhesive to stick the batts up, or use short staples in a hammer tacker to hold the insulation (gotta be careful not to blow right through the sheetrock, though). In either case, you're only trying to hold the insulation up until the sheathing is reapplied. After that, it should stay in place on its own, assuming it fills the stud cavities.
Bob
If I went to the task of removing the outside sheathing, I'd scab on another 2X4 or 2X6 as an additional offset wall and do any of the above plus using unfaced insulation and poly vapor barrier between old and new studs and against the inside of the old wall, then you really get a good insulation system.
Try fomo.com I just contacted them about their product line. Two component foam spray. Just a thought.