I have to thank you folks for giving me musthave books advice. I picked up Working Windows and a bunch of others on renovating, weatherizing and insulating (also La Martha’s Christmas Recipes book but that’s for another forum). I have read thru them as best as possible but there seems to be a bunch of stuff that I’m either not picturing correctly or that the books haven’t covered.
Double-hung windows (the ones w/the weights): How do you insulate/weatherize these? I did see the part about a drip edge on the top and bottom of the windows and checked mine. I have a curved wooded strip that is nailed to the top piece of the outer casing (which doesn’t seem to have a cool name for it)above the upper sash but there doesn’t seem to be a drip edge cut into the sill outside. Should roofing paper be cut to the casing or should it lap up onto the casing outside? Should silicon caulk be applied to all 4 sides of the window casing on the outside on top of the roofing paper and then use GreatStuff inside the casing in the house?
Doors: Similar questions only the front door is an arched wooden door, which makes things tricky.
My goal in to stop or at least lessen the drafts. Redoing the glazing putty helped as did silicon caulking the hideous aluminum storms.
Apologies in advance if I’m not making myself clear due to lack of technical terminology or photos.
Here I’m a bum, there I’m a genius. Thank God the French exist. Woody Allen
Replies
you talk about casing and roofig felt... but do you have siding ?
are you residing the house? the felt acts as a water shed... it should be UNDER the casing already... then the siding goes against the casing on top of the felt.. the vertical joint between the casing and the siding can be caulked... use a good caulk like Phenoseal... or a DAP 35 year or 50 year..
stay away from the silicone caulks..
as to weatherizing your windows.. triple track storms are a good compromise.. interior storm panels are even better.. especially with sash weight windows..
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Akkk. Sorry about that. The house is 1926, cedar shingles. As far as I can tell, I don't see anything under the shingles. I'm hoping against hope that I'm wrong.
So the roofing paper goes under the casing? Had no idea this was how it worked.
Phenoseal or DAP 30/50yr caulk, check. Are these clear, a specific color already or paintable type? Or do I even want to paint them?
Triple track or interior storms are not an option. I'm working with what I've got at the moment (if I become more solvent, THEN I can think about a more costly/better option). I just found out that my poor Volksy has been totalled. *sigh* Not looking forward to fighting w/the insurance company.Here I'm a bum, there I'm a genius. Thank God the French exist. Woody Allen
call resource conservation technolgy 410-366-1146 or http://www.conservationtechnology.coml. They have a lot of differnt weatherization products including covers that go over your sash weight pullies to stop drafts. You could also put a silicon flipper seal on th under side of your lower window to stop drafts from coming thru there. When you can afford them interior magnetic storms work great.