Can someone tell me why you do not insulate between two heated areas. What if the area was insulated “before” and then you finished the room with heat. Do you remove the insulation.
thanks
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What would be the point? Insulation slows the transfer of heat between two areas at different temperatures. If both rooms are heated (or cooled) to the same temperature, there's no temperature differential, so no heat will transfer.
I wouldn't make a big effort to remove insulation. It won't hurt anything if it's left in the wall - and it can provide a bit of sound deadening if it's left there.
You don't insulate between heated wall of a house because you are a cheap bastard who is trying to put walls up as fast as possible, as cheap as possible, with less regard to how it is to live it it for years. You will sell it to a cheap bastard who is squeezing every last dime of profit out of you he can, then spits in your eye because you are ripping him off. He lives there for five years, then sells it to me at the peak of the market.
Now I have this super expensive house that you can hear a mouse fart two bedrooms away. Closing the door seems to actually amplify the sound!
At least, that's how it seems to have worked out for me.
Insulation inside the conditioned space is a premium that most are not willing to pay for. But it is something you will see the difference with when you install it yourself.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
WOW! where did you find the bag of attitude?
When he bought the house.
Fiberglass inside a simple stud wall doesn't muffle much I found out.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
> Fiberglass inside a simple stud wall doesn't muffle much I found out.Cellulose does. Not as good as the full sound treatment, but enough to make a drywall wall seem more like plaster and less like paper.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I thought it was funny.
Do you also have vitriol for people who drive Kia's?BTW- it may be cheaper to take care of the mouse problem than insulate the interior walls.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Don't even get me started on those bastards like me who drive Kias!
Mine is colored blue and silver and dented!
Do they make cheese flavored Beeno?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
He is talking about thermal insulation, not sound insulation, methinks.PS. a little green kryptonite in your ear canals will help reduce the level of hearing problems you have
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
What!?!
;)Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Mouse farts that's just funny, we have the same problem here but with rat's.
in building my loft project... sound transmission has been a huge issue... I'm still very aware of any and all $$ i spend... but in doing the research and tap'n into the info in this forum... there is a ton you can do at little to very little added cost...
1. seal everything in the wall this means sealing around every outlet box even cheap $1 a tube caulk is better than leave'n an air gap... seal every drilled hole in every stud... one can of foam goes a very long way when you are just plug'n holes... drywall one side then from the other side... seal anything you can... 5" sqs of drywall glued to the back of all your outlet boxes help... make sure if you can that outlet boxes for each side of the wall land in different stud bays...
2. glue (liquid nails) every scrap of drywall to the back of the hung drywall doesn't matter id it's 8" sq slap it up there... anything you can do to change/block the sound waves is good... 5/8" on one side and 1/2" on the other side is better at controlling sound than 5/8" rock on both sides...
3. water activated glue on blown in cellulose is pretty cost effective on common walls to add mass and control sound... just it's sealing properties add a ton...
I know you can do more and you can spend alot but attention to details will do more than anything... fiberglass batts are right up there with doing nothing... 6" batts in 4" walls will help a little... but not worth the effort... I think i've hit every web page on the net on this subject most address opinions... but when i see real tests with resluts... i pay attention
p
It's not too unusual to insulate between heated areas, especially if they will be sometimes kept at different temps. Also, FG is often used in fire walls, and cellulose is often blown in as a noise control.
No need to remove existing insulation.
The reason is that insulation typically is installed to prevent transfer of heat. With interior walls, this isn't necessary and may actually be undesirable - I would rather the interior walls of a kitchen be uninsulated, for example. Insulation also deadens sound, though, and it's frequently installed in interior walls to make the rooms quieter.
As far as removing insulation is concerned, I've seen a number of porches in this part of the country that evolve into rooms. I've never seen a case in which the insulation was removed from what had originally been an exterior wall. I have one such room in my own house, and none of the insulation was removed when the porch was walled in.
I would like to thank all of you who responed. I should of said the insulation was not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling. I asked this question because someone told me "not" to have insulation in the ceiling. He didn't explain why. Not sure if it matters, wall or ceiling.
thanks again
When my parents rebuilt a farmhouse they had cellulose blown between 1st floor ceiling and 2nd floor floor. Don't know if it had any heating benefits, but it didn't do any harm, and made the house very quiet.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader