Replies

1. 
   JeffyT | Oct 15, 2009 07:48am | #1

   no thoughts right now on your flooring gap

   however, if you've got a structural brick house in AB and plan to leave the brick exposed to interior over winter i'd say that insulating a flooring gap is the least of your concerns. you're going to lose a huge amount of heat and draft through the wall.

   maybe i'm not getting the whole picture

   j

1. 
   happyclam | Oct 19, 2009 07:40am | #2

   Hi Jeff- sorry for the delay. The brick wall is not actually too bad. It is a double layer of brick with insulation in between, although it will all have shifted or sunk down. Sawdust, I think. We won't be putting up drywall until the large window is replaced.So I was hoping to finish the edge of the floor to buy some time. Thank you for your interest. Happyclam

1. 
   JeffyT | Oct 20, 2009 04:31am | #4

   <The brick wall is not actually too bad.>Doesn't actually matter. Brick is porous and you'll get a lot of air coming through the bricks themselves. Not a draft, really, but over the whole surface of a wall it's quite a bit 'specially if it's -40C outside and 20C inside. If the brick is painted it'll cut down on the air exchange quite a lot but not all brick is suitable for painting. Unless you're really committed to the look of brick interior, may be worthwhile to insulate and finish the interior wall to start with rather than mess with the flooring gap. j

1. 
   happyclam | Oct 24, 2009 06:47am | #6

   Hi JeffyT- seriously considering covering my brick. Majority rules. Frame, stuff (foam or roxul) and drywall. Sadly predictable. But I appreciate your opinion with the price of gas and all. It does have an all over draft but a great look. Thank you, happyclam

2. 
   Dinosaur | Oct 19, 2009 09:33am | #3

   If all you're trying to do is buy some time, squirt some one-part foam in there. Bit of a pain to dig out later, but easier than plaster, grout, or any of the other ideas you mentioned.

   You might also want to stick up some two-inch foamboard on the brick wall. I live in Mont-Tremblant, so I know about minus 40. You leave that brick exposed like that through one Calgary winter and you're gonna buy four times as much fuel as it'll cost you in foam board.

   Blue XPS, stick it up with PL 300. Tape the joints with Glasclad. Take you two hours.

   You guys skiing out in Banff yet?

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

1. 
   happyclam | Oct 24, 2009 06:40am | #5

   Hey Dinosaur- It was my birthday the other day, so I am officially a dino myself. If I put the blue foam on, do I need a vapor barrier over that if I add drywall at some point. I live by Edmonton so Banff is further south of us. Not enough snow yet....Makes me want to go and buy foam. Thanks for the info. I am a happy clam

1. 
   Dinosaur | Oct 25, 2009 08:25pm | #7

   Some people use rigid foam board insulation as an integral vapour barrier; if you want to do that, you have to tape the joints with Glasclad (Tuck) red tape, and also seal the sides of each panel to the studding with canned 1-part foam.

   I don't particularly like building with a VB that is so tight absolutely nothing gets in or out. That in my opinion is a major cause of 'sick building syndrome' which is a fancy way of saying the place is so tight that enough moisture collects inside it to promote unfettered growth of nasty microbes and moulds. My preference is to use the older aluminised kraft paper VB, which stops enough moisture to keep the wall cavities safe, but allows just enough natural air exchange so that you don't need to install a mechanical air-exchanger unit.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

1. 
   happyclam | Oct 26, 2009 08:15am | #9

   many thanks for the info. I agree about the microbes. Signing off, happyclam

3. 
   popawheelie | Oct 25, 2009 11:15pm | #8

   I have a brick house that has minimal insulation in the walls.

   My plan is to insulate these exterior walls as I remodel rooms.

   I plan on taking everything off the brick first.

   Then running receptacles so the wall is updated to current standards.

   Then I plan to put a foam board on the wall.

   Then furring strips and drywall.

   I figure when you have the brick exposed it is a good opportunity to upgrade the wall.

   If you put these layers on the wall it should cover the gap.

   Right now my house has cold spots all over the place. You can put your hand on the wall and it is cccoolld!

    

   "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."
   Will Rogers
1. 
   happyclam | Oct 26, 2009 08:26am | #10

   Hi Popawheelie- Yes, that is how the gap developed. The hardwood ran up to the wall that is now gone. I guess as long as I build it out to its original thickness the gap will be dealt with. I was hoping to just cover up the strip of debris in the living room. Our house does not have too many cold spots except for the office built over where the coal was stored below. Perhaps all the heat is being sucked out evenly thru the exposed brick! Never short of projects. Good luck with your renos and being thorough with the upgrades. hclam