Just got told by a drywaller “You did your insulation wrong…the paper’s supposed to be stapled to the inside of the stud so it doesn’t interfere with the sheetrock. Having paper on front makes it pop loose from the screws”. I know from an insulating standpoint, it’s not recommended to staple to the sides and compress the insulation. Has anyone else had problems with drywall popping due to kraft paper on the studs?
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Naw,
The rocker is just blowing smoke up your tailpipe. He wanted to put glue on the stud faces and only screw the sheetrock every foot to 18 inches. Otherwise it is 8 inches for screws. I am rough on the specific screw placement. Actual fastener schedule measurements relate to stud spacing, wall or ceiling, and thickness of DW. I did the same as you and later wished I had stapled inside the space rather than the stud face. It is too late for you now but there is a book Taunton put out on drywalling. I own one but suspect I rocked it in with my notebook.
I had a moment of epiphany when I looked up to my cathedral ceiling where the barrier was Poly continuously stapled over the surface with the 24"wide 10" thick R38 Fiberglass being hung in place by the suspension wires. Couldn't do it there if I wanted to. Way too much work for a marginal benefit. Anyway, that is to be T&G cedar. Didn't need the rock up there in a single family structure
I had this discussion a while ago, and I saw it even made it into the Fine Homebuilding magazine this year. To truncate that part of the discussion it was not considered a firehazard to staple inside the studs.
The rocker wants to tape & fill the screwholes fast. Time is money. It is somewhat more secure to glue.
Screw it, forget it, there are bigger fish to fry than the sheetrock in your project hopefully.
PS the "popping loose" happens only where he missed the stud with the fastener. Don't take it as an excuse from him. Look around there are generally other drywall men if it is too big to do yourself. If you go or have gone with this guy check his work (pre mud) for errant (not-in-the-stud) fasteners. Pull them yourself or call him on it if there are are more than a dozen you inspect out. I'm sure most of the rockers you'll find are good, but like most of us have to put on their "church lady-superiority" hat. That is preferable to a CYA approach that this could be.
I'm trying to make the judgement call of whether it's a CYA or not. I have poly over the insulation, so adhesive was out either way I stapled it. Haven't hired him yet, this was just during bid. His bid looks good and he's a competent guy with lot's of experience, just not particularly tactful. Bid meeting was laced with lots of "I would have done that differently/better" talk.
Too big of a job for me...3100+ sf of drywall on first floor, 9' ceilings, no fancy equipment/lifts, no previous experience. I'm still muddling through drywall on the half-story upstairs myself, since the ceilings are lower and I can't ethically subject a contractor to the "uniqueness" of my sloped ceiling and dormer framing. Somewhat embarassed...midway through rocking the ceiling upstairs, I figured out I've been buying 3/8" instead of 1/2"...I'll switch on the walls, but the stuff is heavy enough I think I'll stick with the 3/8" on the ceiling.
Hire it out if you can swing it. If not borrow money from your kids to rent a drywall lift. For 25 bucks a weekend you can put up lots of material without hurting yourself. Ceilings are laughably easy.
Careful on the 3/8ths. If it is vertical you may be ok with close stud spacing. Ceiling may get droopy. Go to the high buck hardware store and read the drywall book on material selection. Like I wrote earlier, I think I rocked mine in the wall.
From what Ive been told through the years, stapling to the inside of studs is not recomended, as it not only compresses insulation but creates an air channel between drywall and insulation where moisture can collect. I also believe that you should not install a poly vapor barrier over anything but unfaced insulation.
As far as 3/8" DW on the ceiling, dont do it!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
I had the buy-in on the poly over kraft from an Architect, for whatever that's worth...I've seen it done elsewhere. I'll stick with the 1/2" on the ceiling. Have to hire out at least part...If I don't get this darn thing done soon and move, my baby's going to be crawling in an old house that's not so hygienic.
Thanks for the help!
The discussion on this in the FHB magazine was mentioned in the magazine Forum 2 months ago (tile on the cover) .
"Substantial contact" was the trip phrase. If this was the case with the insulation to drywall interface then it was ok. Some consideration was given to the underfilling of cavities with insulation as making this a problem.
I don't know about you guys but I try to pack as much as in as possible without affecting the ventilation (roof only on a cathedral ceiling.)
By-the-way the poly over kraft was not in my structure due to the fact that cathedral batting comes unfaced. Seemed waaay denser than the standard pink fluff. You need to use the suspension wires to hold it in place til the poly helps out. Then of course the ceiling material does the final supporting.
Jaybird, Are you saying one needs 1/2 inch DW under the T&G Cedar ceiling boards? It is hard to know what makes sense in fire protection. Tinder, I mean cedar, isn't very fire preventive. Obviously a DW cube is best but when you are putting up T&G cedar is there some other requirement? That is, in a Single family application.
No, no....the comment regarding 3/8" DW was directed at original poster. I was agreeing with you on the point of drooping.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"