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b Another homeowner. One day we will rule the world.
a 50s or 60s old metal building housed a large furniture store. Thick, ribbed metal roofing. Three metal buildings joined side by side, eave overhangs meeting each other with interior gutters where the roofs meet. Theoretically running to downspouts in front and back of building, but years of cowboy roof cement patch have rendered it to poorly operational. Inside you can look up to where the buildings meet and see the hand built gutter system complete with the sealer at the gutter seams and the screw points poking through. Not leaking there however. Plenty of leaks through out the system. A total rip out is not feasible since it is an operational store. My first thoughts were a liner of sorts bedded into the gutters but know little of liner capabilities adapting to old roof cement;tar. Or should I just put a new coat of fibered aluminum roofing coating on top of it and do it again after every yearly freeze/thaw cycle. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Rez,
Sta-kool elastomric with the fabric should fix this for years. I used it to fix holes in a metal roof that silicone ate through. Five years and still holding.
http://www.sta-kool.com/
KK
Thanks kk. Could you elaborate on the silicon eating thru metal? That's a new piece of knowledge to me and want to hear it right. -rez
I've used a two part product from Geocel (2300 and 2310). One is a caulk to seal holes and gaps and the other is a brusable sealer. Very UV and temperature resistant. You won't find this stuff at Home Depot or any big box I don't think. Try roofing suppliers. Their web site is geocelusa.com.
Thanks grant- that'll be worth looking into. a hat tip to ya
By and large silicones will NOT eat through metal. However, the older silicones cured by giving off acetic acid (that's the vinegary smell you used to love). In some very limited cases, the acetic acid could cause a little corrosion.
What more likely happened is that silicones have rotten adhesion to anything. So, water collected underneath the silicone and caused the corrosion.
FOLKS--NEVER use silicones unless you have to. They just don't stick very well. They are good in bathrooms because the bead itself doesn't pick up much staining. But you have all seen the bead pulling away from the wall or sink. (If you must use silicones, the surface has to be spotlessly clean. Then you have a fighting chance.)
Some of the best adhesion comes from the solvent-based butyl caulks--and use the high-buck ones. The cheap ones are so full of filler that there is not enough resin left to give any performance.What's the difference between stupidity and ambivalence?
I don't know & I don't care
JohnD and Rez,
I have seen the acid cure silicone eat holes in 26 ga. metal roofing when applied between sheets. The acid cures are still on the shelf and state on the tube not to use on metal. The butyl dries up and turns hard after a while but an elastomeric like Lexell seems to last the longest and sticks like hell. It is my favorite "glue" for anything other than wood to wood. Works great as a bathroom caulk also but you gotta work fast and tool with thinner.
KK