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Get a closer look at the building process for this durable, flush, lightweight door.
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I replaced all my interior door knobs with Schlage as they had a universal fit for my edge bores. They also came with a lifetime warranty.
Bob.
Assuming you shop at Homedepot, Schlage looks, installs and works best. The cheapest brand feels loose and sometimes can't be tightened (to my satisfaction) without the bolt binding. The middle ground is Kwicset. If this is replacement, Schlage will be most accommodating to normal, existing conditions. If drilling new holes, consider two and three quarters backset instead of regular three eights.
HD and Lowes are options, but not necessarily where I would get this hardware. Yes, it is replacing existing hardware. I have experienced the loose hardware, and it sure does feel cheap. That's why I'm asking, trying to avoid the cheap feel. Bottom line...don't want to spend too much, but willing to spend enough.Do it right, or do it twice.
I put Kwikset on the bottom - for mobile homes maybe
Then Schlage is what I use most often, and never a callback or worn out one. I get to replace a lot of Kwiksets with Schlages - did two just last week.
Baldwin or Emtex are the high end ones for those who want solid brass, crystal, levers, etc, and can pay for it.
There was an article on the subject in (I think) The Old House Journal recently that was very thorough and well presented..
Excellence is its own reward!
TOH maybe?
I read an article recently, can't remember where, it presented various different brands, kwik, Schlage, baldwin, how they are rated by the industry based on how many hundreds of thousands of openings etc.
I don't get that magazine but you have described the article well enough. Do you get Old Hous eJournal?.
Excellence is its own reward!
I do not subscribe to it, but that doesn't mean I didn't pick that one up in the supermarket or an airport.
Hey Piffin,
I have used the Kwikset Titan which was fine, although I haven't seen them around lately. The regular Kwikset just plain rot. The Schlage is also good.
Now here's my question, what type of screwdriver is the best for getting at the screws that connect the two knobs to one another? I have found that it is too easy to strip the scew head or scratch the finish on the knob itself when using a #1 phillips head.
Any tricks to make it easier?
Thanks Turtleboy
turtle,
I've had good luck with these ratcheting screwdrivers, there are 3 different versions. One straight, and two offset, one is offset forward and the other back.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00941716000
Good for driving screws in most tight places where a lot of torque isn't required, they work on most locksets depending on the design.
It wasn't too long ago that this Q came up.
I really don't have any problems,must be technique, which is hard to teach this way.
I hold both sides sin place and start the screws by hand, then use a long Philips to spin them in - not one all at once, but several turns on each to keep them even..
Excellence is its own reward!
I pretty much do the same for the locksets I have, it's just when they begin to get too close the eskutchen (sp) and I can no longer turn them by hand.
Turtleboy
what type of screwdriver is the best
The one that works for you <g>
Technique is every thing. The first best thing is to get both screws started, then lay on with a screwdriver. I use a racheting driver as it tends (just tends, mind you) to let me use one hand only for the screwdriver. I keep one of the bent drivers with a striaght & phillips head to get into tight spots or behind fancy knobs (sometimes with a bit of electrical tape as a cushion).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Ah, just got the question from your answer.
Turtle: I use a premium Philips screw driver with a long shaft, hardened tip, and a steep attack angle on the tip (hold a cheap driver and an expensive driver side-by-side and you see what I mean); then just grind a touch off the very tip of the tip; less than 1/2mm, maybe less than 1/4mm on some tips, take a touch off at a time and try it; you now should have a Philips driver that will grab at more of a an angle for the light torque required.
.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Edited 11/10/2003 1:26:36 AM ET by Phill Giles
Phill,
I stopped by a small Sears today and picked up a #1 phillips screw driver because thats all that they had loose in this place. Got home and took off about 3/32" max and it worked great, it even drove in the screw I thought was too far stripped. Hope I don't loose it.
Thanks for the help, Turtleboy
I've got the offset and the ratcheting type but prefer just to use a regular #2 phillips.
Thanks for the tip on the tape though, Turtleboy
Oh-Oh, second answer to driver question. I do notice that people tend to undersize when using a Philips driver (this is truely a case where appearances are deceiving - it's the bite of the 4 blades, not the diameter, that determines driver size with Philips). Locksets that are mounted with Philips-head machine screws, IMHO, generally require a #2 driver, a #1 driver will often strip the head. A PH-2x6 is the minimum
.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Edited 11/10/2003 1:30:05 AM ET by Phill Giles
Phill I'll be doing the tip-nip thing when I pick up another loose #2 to see if that is even better.
Turtleboy
Remember to mark that driver and set it aside for this use (maybe put some shrink tubing on the shaft to both protect the knobs and to mark it). Use a different driver to run in Philip's wood screws..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Turtle, phill is correct in the number 2 PH driver. A combo driver is too bulky, use a longer no. 2 phillips. I sleeve the driver shaft with a drink straw for no mar, alternately tightening from side to side. I like that idea of grinding off a bit of the tip.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
"what type of screwdriver is the best for getting at the screws that connect the two knobs to one another?"
I have a Snap-on brand screwdriver that I use for that. It had a very smooth shank that doesn't scratch the knob.Sex on television can't hurt - unless you fall off
Schlage,
Will last 40 plus years.
Jon
Baldwin, exspensive but better than Shalage , Quikset etc.
You might want to check a professional millwork shop or door supplier. Even though they sell the same Schlage and Kwikset brands as the big box stores, I have a sneaking suspicion the quality is better: more metal, less plastic.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Is this for the ever changing project?
Baldwin is very nice but very $$$
Is this for the ever changing project? Yes, but she wants to put practical knobs on the inside doors so she can spend $$$ on the front door. Actually, she doesn't have a clue. She asked me if she should select a full-mortise entry lockset for the kitchen-to-garage door.Do it right, or do it twice.
"Decent" is hard to interpret. What is the budget? What kind of objection is there to the lower end stuff as seen at home centers? What kind of finish is required? What price level package is this hardware going into? There is Kwikset at the low end and many choices between that and Juno and Rocky Mountain Hardware at the high end.
Personally, I like Schlage A series stuff, but it is quite pricey. Kind of stuff you use when your hard costs are in the $150/sf and up range.
Hate to sound like a broken record; but, Schlage/Baldwin (I think it's one company ?) are just so much better unless you get into the real premium stuff. Schlage comes in several grades, I bought some Schlage top-of-the-line lever-handled sets as replacements for Qwik-sets - can pass for Baldwins unless you put them side-to-side, about 1/3 the price.
If I was just buying round brass sets, the contractor-grade E-Z-Set is surprising good.
For the front door - Baldwin.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Had good luck with Schlage. There are different grade levels 1,2,3, 1 being the highest (commercial). Something to watch out for if you're bidding a job and don't pay attention to the hardware specs.
http://www.buildershardware.com/2030.html